The story behind the English Tweed coat
When we develop a new coat with Private White VC, Lucas and I generally travel up to Manchester to them in person, to talk through the idea and dig into the archive. At the end of last year, when we went up to discuss our ‘English Tweed&rsquo...
The story behind the English Tweed coat
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Thanks Simon...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduct...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
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Thanks for the great article 🙏 Surprised you didn't mention Alexander's of Scotland, I've seen some great quality come from their Mills...
Swedish craft companies playing the long game: Sv...
By Dag Granath Something that’s true for most – if not all – companies covered by Permanent Style is that they aspire to create something that stands the test of time. Two of my favourite Swedish companies outside menswear have th...
Swedish craft companies playing the long game: Sv...
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Most certainly. It is something worth bringing up with them. For good or bad, many international customers find their way to MMF via interior architects which means they rarely connect personally with the company....
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
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I wouldn't wear that myself, as I prefer something subtler, but if you want to be a little.more showy or trad, it can certainly look good...
A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches
My Brioni jacket in a cream beige wool/silk/linen Wool/silk/linen blends have been a favourite for summer jackets for many years, although in the UK they only started to be offered about 10 years ago. More recently, English mills have also started ...
A guide to wool/silk/linen: Mixes, colours, bunches
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Thanks Simon. My tailor hasnt received the Zegna bunch yet. I will take a look at the Dormeuil bunch in person first. Again really appreciate your help!...
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi . I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place...
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
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It can happen, yes. Cord is sort of seen as tough because the wales can rub off in this way - and leave the material below intact, protected for a little bit. It's not normally what we want it to do though!...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
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No worries John, nothing is ever too late. The fabric has held up well, but it's never going to be something I wear intensely, so it's not necessarily a fair test. It has given me enough confidence to commission somethin...
Linen, paisley and velvet interiors: de Le Cuona
I recently followed a thread of interest from shirtmaker Emma Willis, to the slow-woven fabric of her dressing gowns, to the company that produces them, de Le Cuona. It was a fairly speculative journey. I had no idea whether anything I discovered at...
Linen, paisley and velvet interiors: de Le Cuona
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There will be a post on mine next week JH, so you don't have to wait long. But it was a plain cashmere from Budd...
A visit to Molloy & Sons
Living in a city, it’s easy to become reliant on Google Maps. After all, it will tell you not only where things are, but how to get there, which train is fastest, and the branches of Pret a Manger along on the way. Driving from Belfast to Don...
A visit to Molloy & Sons
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I haven't tried that one Larry, but I suspect it would be too soft, having had jackets from the same bunch. There are probably other suit-like options for tweeds other than Thornproof, but it's not a type of material I'v...
The Willy Wonka wool room
OK, so when I wrote last week about how Donegal yarn is spun, I left out the best bit. It was deliberate, as I thought this process deserved a post on its own. When Maureen at Donegal Yarns started our tour of the factory, she said she had taken a ...
The Willy Wonka wool room
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Thank you. I'll fix that now...
How Donegal yarn is made
*Donegal Coat update: The first batch is ready and will be shipping out this week. A smaller second batch will go on sale next week. Use the form on the shop page to be added to the waiting list for that if you're interested* Jamie and I travelled t...
How Donegal yarn is made
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Thank you Lindsay. Yes that's a nice idea but, not to always throw a spanner in the works, usually these kinds of points are more nuanced than that. Irish linen is wonderful, but stiffer and more formal than lighter Euro...
Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid
Two years ago, when we visited the Joshua Ellis mill near Batley, Yorkshire, I spent a happy couple of hours browsing their archive. As you might expect, the vast majority were classics: plain or textured cashmeres, houndstooths and herringbones. T...
Introducing: Permanent Style Plaid
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Thanks Leif, the material is coming back into stock this summer, for autumn/winter jackets...
Introducing: PS Harris Tweed
My favourite Harris Tweed has not been available for a few years now. Originally offered by Holland & Sherry, I was such a fan that I used it for one of my favourite tweed jackets (from Elia Caliendo, below ), a fantastic ulster coat from L...
Introducing: PS Harris Tweed
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No worries. Nothing confirmed at the moment...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...
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I am aware everything has become quite quickly expensive over the past few years but their offshore suit now starts from around £3,200 which in my opinion is a massive jump in two years. I wasn’t really sceptical abou...
The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo)
My Cifonelli velvet jacket The cloth that you select for a tuxedo (or black tie) probably won’t get as much thought as the design, the shirt or indeed your bow tie. The options are fairly limited, and all those other things will have a greater ...
The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo)
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I don't have any more information I'm afraid KD...
Introducing: PS Selvedge Chambray
Back in 2017, Jamie Ferguson and I visited fabric mills in Japan - like Hosoo, in Kyoto (pictured below) , which produces the most extraordinary silks. It was really interesting to see the weaving side of Japanese heritage, and the typically innovat...
Introducing: PS Selvedge Chambray
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That’s encouraging. Lindsay...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
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No worries James, always happy to help on any piece. Unfortunately I don't have the number (I have looked in the past) though. Also bear in mind bunches are often changed every 3-5 years, so it may not be available any m...
Escorial Tweed is available again
UPDATE: Please note that the tech sheet for tailors, mentioned below, also includes information on the small shrinkage that sometimes occurs with Escorial. If your tailor is unsure on how this will affect the amount you need, please request this she...
Escorial Tweed is available again
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I'd go for a matching lining, something very close in colour but if in doubt, a shade darker...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that you can throw on for...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
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Hi Biswajit, I think you may find that a suit in a light construction, such as from a Neapolitan tailor, in a lightweight material, may make as much difference as regards the weather. The biggest difference an unstructur...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...
The headline news in this season’s round-up is the launch of Anglo-Italian cloth . That’s right, the shop that does MTM tailoring is also selling cloth that customers can take elsewhere to have made. The move was spurred, according to ...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2020 – fea...
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Probably not Dennis to be honest, the reception of them generally wasn't that great, and 90% of the questions I get are about classic cloths rather than seasonal ones, or new unusual bunches. There's probably a better ar...
Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre
Anyone that has been on or around Savile Row in the past year would have likely come across the force of nature that is Nancy Johnston (above), founder of Tengri, and her yak fibre. Nancy is a social worker, traveller and campaigner, who founded Te...
Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre
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Hi Simon, hope your coat is holding up and keeping you warm this winter. Phong, Khangai yak fabrics is relatively new to the world, so it hasn't been wear-tested for years but I can say all our fabrics are heavily tested...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts. Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels and cor...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
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In that respect yes, though the colour would make a big difference as well obviously...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
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The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
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They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
Today, the question I get more than any other is: what cloth should I use for a sports jacket? Selecting cloth for a jacket is not easy, at least once you’ve gone beyond the navy blazer. Compared to a navy or grey suit, there's a dizzying ran...
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
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Sorry—it and the oatmeal are already active parts of my wardrobe. Both great cloths!...
