One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled.
I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recommendations for a while, so I can point readers there and don’t have to reply in full every time.
So a selfish motivation, primarily. But I’m also hoping that this Resources page will become a useful reference document - something readers might bookmark and refer to.
Of course, as with most things on this site, this is just a list of my experiences and recommendations. So that does limit it a little, particularly geographically.
As a result, I’m thinking that if three or more readers recommend somewhere else, I will add it to the list, making clear that is why it is listed.
If anyone has any views on a different way to handle this, please do chip in.
Below, then, is a list of the places I have used, liked and can recommend, with a few comments and details on each.
Dry cleaning
Although dry cleaning should be done as infrequently as possible on tailoring (perhaps once a year depending on usage) there will be times when it is required, often with particularly tough stains.
The key to a good cleaner is one that will do pieces individually, and can press well - most high-street cleaners fall down on this point, ruining lapels and collars by pressing them flat.
The Valet
- Part of a team now comprising George the presser, Celebrity Dry Cleaners and Tom (previously The Jaunty Flaneur)
- the-valet.com
- I've used all three and they provide a good, professional service
Michael Norman
- No street-facing space - operates through pick-ups (most areas in and around London)
- www.mnbespoke.com, [email protected]
- I’ve used Michael for a few years and he has been consistently good, on cleaning and pressing
There are a few other good dry cleaners in central London used by Savile Row tailors, but they tend to just clean, with the tailor then doing the pressing. Those include Buckingham Dry Cleaners (Duke St, Mayfair) and Mr Steeds (South London, collects).
Invisible Mending
Holes or cuts in tailoring can often be repaired invisibly, reweaving the cloth so nothing shows afterwards. This can be expensive, usually from £80 up to £200 or £300; but if it saves a £4000 suit, it’s worth it.
Tailors use various people, mostly based at home outside London. But there is one good resource in Marylebone - British Invisible Mending.
British Invisible Mending
- 32 Thayer Street, Marylebone
- www.invisible-mending.co.uk, 020 7487 4292
- Some work done on site, some sent outside
- I’ve used once, several years ago, with good results
Tailoring alterations
Most alterations should, again, be done by the original tailor, but that’s not always easy with foreign tailors, or possible with ready-to-wear brands.
The ideal here is somewhere that is a tailor themselves, but is happy to do alterations on other tailors’ work.
Pinnas & Needles
- A great operation in Soho, though often busy
- pinnasandneedles.com
- Covered on Permanent Style here
Bestline
- A decent service at 6 South Molton Street
- Maybe not quite as good on bespoke work, but solid
- 020 7493 9718
Graham Browne
- 12 Well Court, London
- www.grahambrowne.co.uk, 020 7248 7730
- I’ve had suits made at Graham Browne (run by Russell Howarth) and had many alterations done over the years.
Some high-street dry cleaners have tailors in-house, who can deal with simple changes like shortening trouser legs, taking in trouser waists, and perhaps narrowing a jacket waist. I’ve used Atelier Colpani for such changes. Hidalgo Brothers on Savile Row also come recommended.
Knitwear repair
Most people should clean their knitwear more than they do - once every few months perhaps - and that helps with pilling and other signs of wear.
However, those that specialise in it can remove all pilling very effectively, as well as darning moth holes, and repairing collars and cuffs.
Love Cashmere
- Ladylaw Mill, Hawick, Scotland
- www.lovecashmere.com, 01450 377648
- Operates by post.
- I’ve used Love Cashmere a few times and been very impressed - see post here. Knitwear comes back cleaned, de-pilled, repaired and feeling like new - and it’s cheap, usually £20-£50.
- They can do all forms of repair, and even some alterations, such as slimming bodies. The latter is risky, however, and I sewed my own alteration for them to then fashion properly
Cashmere Circle are also a good option.
Denim hemming (and workwear repair)
A few places in London have the chainstitch machines that are required to hem jeans properly. They are: Clutch Cafe, Son of a Stag, Bryceland's and Blackhorse Lane.
However, Blackhorse Lane are the only shop that will do repairs of other brands' jeans, in their shop in Coal Drops Yard (King's Cross). See article here on what repairs on jeans are possible.
David Claxton also does repairs of denim, as well as repairs of workwear in general. He doesn't have a physical shop, but he comes highly recommended and we covered him here.
Leather clothing repair and alterations
I wish I'd known I could get leather jackets altered earlier in my life. Stuck between a medium size on the shoulders and a small on the waist, I would often get the small as I knew a big waist would annoy be more.
In recent years, I've always bought the right fit on the shoulders (as should be done on tailoring) and had the waist taken in.
Cromford Leather
- 56 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, London
- www.cromfordleather.co.uk, 020 7935 1041
- Pauline and her team make for some large brands, offer their own line, and do all manner of repairs and alterations. I've had two jackets altered, and one repaired in the collar. I'm now having a made-to-measure jacket made.
- You can read more about her work and alterations on old pieces here
Shoe resoling
It’s usually best, and safest, to give your shoes back to the original maker to be re-soled. However, many of the English makers also use re-soling places in London for this work, and the three I’ve listed here are all used in that way.
They will also do some things you might rather not give to your shoemaker - such as changing the sole for a different style. I usually take my shoes to Tom at The Valet, as I know him and its very convenient. But if you want to go to an actual repair shop, some good ones are:
Tonys Heel Bar
- 1 Wolsey Mews, Kentish Town
- www.tonysheelbar.co.uk
- 020 7839 5295
Kokos Shoes and Repairs
- 72-74 High Rd, Finchley, London
- www.kokos.co.uk, 020 8883 0876
Fifth Avenue Shoe Repairs
- 41 Goodge St, Fitzrovia, London
- 020 7636 6705
Shoe polishing and patination
There is a very particular pleasure in polishing your own shoes. But if you’re lazy, bad at it, or want to change the colour with dyes (patination) then a specialist is needed.
They can also often help with things like cleaning or damage, and recommend other places for resoling or repair.
The Valet
- Tom at The Valet can arrange shoe patination as well as looking after shoe repair, and doing polishing work himself. In the past he has patinated a pair of Dovers for me and helped clean some white nubuck ‘bucks’, both with great results.
-
He also works on leather goods such as bags and wallets.
Trimmings and equipment
Resources to buy the things you need to look after clothes yourself
- Buttons and linings: Bernstein & Banleys
- Shoe polishing and other garment care: Skolyx or The Hanger Project
- Trimmings and sewing: MacCulloch & Wallis
- 25-26 Poland St, Soho, London, 020 7629 0311
Please do add your own thoughts, experiences and recommendations.
And by the way, things you should be able to do yourself include polishing shoes, sewing buttons, darning small holes, pressing trouser creases, steaming jackets, and looking after suede.
Some resources on PS that could help there are:
Here's to buying better, lasting longer, and loving more.
Pinnas & Needles in Soho are fantastic, very good quality work. They do some bespoke as well but haven’t heard any reviews (would be curious though!). a pair of Sicilian twins in a lovely corner of London. Worth popping into Andrew Edmunds for lunch as well!
G
Thanks, nice recommendation – that’s alterations and repairs to clothing by the way, for any curious readers
Would add that their key flaw is opening hours – 9-6 with no weekends!
I would like to recommend Pinnas and Needles also. Had them shorten a sleeve on a jacket by around 9cm, which they shortened from the sleeve head with brilliant results. Sleeve lining was very well hand finished internally. Their prices are reasonable for the quality of work.
Completely agree with this suggestion. Have taken RTW suits to them for years and they have always done a great job. Very modest prices.
I also highly recommend P&N. Their attention to detail is phenomenal. They’re the only people I trust to handle things like sleeve pitch.
I hope to try their bespoke offering one day. Can’t really find a nicer set of guys too.
Very helpful list! Do you have anybody you use for alterations with denim?
Good point – no, but I do know that Son of a Stag does a service using Soldier Blue down the road. And of course Son of a Stag also offer a chain stitch service for shortening jeans
Classic Shoe Repairs in Islington have my vote. Outstanding quality and service.
Thanks! Am I correct in thinking the chain stitch is only necessary for shortening? i.e. it’s not needed for taking in the waist, etc?
Yes
Denim doctor in Manchester
This is very useful information, something I had been waiting for.
Can I rely on Graham Browne for sleeve shortening via shoulder?
Many thanks
Phil
Yep. Though if it’s not their style of shoulder, eg a Neapolitan one, then it might be tricky
And shortening from the shoulder doesn’t work for patterned fabrics as the matching is lost
If I’m not mistaken you had used Burford Valet in the past. Is there any specific reason why they are not included in here?
I have used them in the past, after discovering them on your site, with good results, but can’t compare with any of the other names mentioned here, so was curious to understand the differences. Thank you
Hi Albert,
It was just that I found Michael Norman more responsive, so began using him. And I’m generally just recommending one in each category
I would say that it would be more useful to have a list as locations may not be practical for everyone
We’ll try and expand it over the months to include other locations. I didn’t want to do a plain list though, as you can get that by just searching online
Not a new recommendation, more a further endorsement (if needed!) for Tony’s Heel Bar. I understand J Fitzpatrick uses Tony for all their toe taps, for example – and the price is very reasonable compared to using many makers own factory. I also had Tony change some buckles on a recent J Fitz MTO
Distinctive Shoe Repairs in Paddington is top quality.
For alterations in London I use Artesian Tailors in Chepstow Road.
For invisible mending I use two sisters in Rome near Piazza Cavour: they saved a few items that had moth holes and they also re-stitched a cashmere jumper.
For dry cleaning I tried Blanc near Portobello Road but I was not satisfied.
I’d certainly recommend British Invisible Mending too. They sucessfully mended some very pominent moth holes on the front of a flanel suit jacket with very good results. Given how painstaking the work they undertake are, and hoe good their reuslt are I think their prices are reasonable.
I won’t make a recommendation since I live in a western Canadian city that I suspect few other readers live in as well.
I had a seamstress add gussets to two shirts where the armholes were to tight. Very reasonable price and two shirts were saved that I otherwise could not wear anymore.
Many of the alterations tailors I spoke to had no idea what a gusset is. The one I found does costume work for theater and regularly uses gussets to make vintage clothing items fit. A very useful person to have found.
There are some Edmontonians here… recommend away. 🙂
Good guess on Edmonton. I can recommend Tony the Tailor for alterations but I used Lucille Fester at Rhythm Fabrics for the gussets.
Edmonton ex-pat here as well. 🙂
Thanks for these recommendations!
I’m curious to know if any Edmontonians have used John the Tailor for bespoke suits or sport coats.
Has anybody used Jeeves for shirt laundering? If so, what are your thoughts? £7.50 per shirt is clearly at the top end of the market but is it worth it?
I had a bad experience with the suit cleaning and pressing Ryan. They’re not really experts.
I know I always say it as well, but don’t get dry cleaners to launder your shirts. It will shorten their life.
This bears repeating. Far too many iGents go on about dry cleaning their luxury bespoke shirts.
Shirts are made to be laundered at home. By definition. Including the most expensive bespoke shirts. Cotton is not damaged by cold water and soap (whereas it is damaged by many of the nasty chemicals used in dry cleaning). And a shirt is a single layer of fabric, so you don’t have to worry about it getting deformed.
The only exception (only just, and only if nothing else works) is if you need to remove the odd nasty stain like ballpoint ink.
I’m all for patronising professional shops, but dry cleaning your shirts is blasphemy.
Thanks Simon. I’ve always washed and ironed my shirts myself and was primarily looking at other options to save time. I care a lot about quality and longevity, though, so I’ll continue doing it myself.
Just out of interest, what part of the laundering process reduces the lifespan of the shirts? Previously I had thought this was only an issue with dry cleaning.
External cleaners tend to do shirts on bulk, on higher heats, and press them hard. It’s not really luxury treatment for what is a luxury shirt – doing yourself at home is nearly always kinder
I have to agree with you Simon about external cleaners using industrial washing and pressing processes which are not kind to cloth.
I am very lucky to have found a local mother and daughter business who wash small batches of shirts, never mix colours, press by hand, and who collect my shirts from home and deliver them back to me on hangers. For £1.60 a shirt.
You will understand that I will not be sharing their contact details.
Having only just seen this post, Anyone taking a shirt to the dry cleaners will be disappointed to learn that no dry cleaner would dry clean a shirt, nearly all shirts are washed. As Simon has said shirts on bulk, high temperature wash rpm’s of 1000 or more will do your shirts harm.
The best advice here for anyone wanting to do there own shirts are as follows, 40c quick wash Persil Bio with no more than a 800rpm spin speed (this spin speed is very important in not permanently creasing your shirt) It will make it easy for when you iron. Shirts would only be dry cleaned to remove grease stains, biro, and antiperspirant yellow stains
Hope this advice helps
Laundering and dry cleaning are totally different processes. The former uses soap and water, the latter uses chemicals.
Sending shirts to a good laundry should be no different, and therefore have no impact on life, than you doing it yourself at home.
The benefit is that it saves you a lot of time.
Avoid dry cleaners like the plague.
They are indeed, but laundering somewhere external will usually be done in volume, and pressed without much care. Not always by any means, but doing it at home will always be safer
Agreed. I went through a period where I was getting shirts laundered at work for a price that I couldn’t ignore. Unfortunately, what I hadn’t factored in was what it did to the total cost of ownership and the need to replace shirts earlier (not to mention constantly having to replace buttons that were either broken or missing).
I’ve used TML Tailors on Gray’s Inn Road for years. Paul effectively remade my wardrobe when I lost a lot of weight. My cheap but really good.
What resources to clean, repair and alter would you recommend for those of us that live in New York City? Thank you
That would be my next place to put together a list. Perhaps readers can help there too
When I lived in NYC, albeit 18 years ago, the Church’s shop recommended B. Nelson, who were, from memory, on Madison.
They resolved a couple of pairs of shoes for me and did a very good job.
Excellent idea for an article Simon. Classic shoe repairs in Islington is always highly recommended. New Stitches in Richmond is also recommended; I have had excellent invisible mending on woollen garments and a variety of jackets (sleeve length at shoulder), coats (length) and trousers altered to a high degree of finish. They also do leather (alterations and repairs). Also worth looking at Laine (74 St George’s Rd in Brighton) for alterations to woollen garments (sleeves, length etc. can be altered/lengthened esp. after any shrinkage).
Thank you very much for the information ! If there are any Germans following PS I am able to recommend Ralf Poppe in Cologne. A bespoke shoemaker himself he does all repairs of (goodyear) welted shoes. And for a reasonable price comparing to have the shoes repaired by the producer.
#schuhmacherkoeln
http://www.schuhmacher-poppe.de
In the U.S., Rave Fabricare in Arizona, for cleaning and some repairs too. I doubt there is a better cleaner in the U.S. They do mail order.
For shoes, Willie’s Shoe Service in Los Angeles. They also make shoes so they know what they’re doing.
I’ve popped into Cad several times to see the jaunty flaneur. The only one I’ve ever seen working there is PJ Upadhyaya, who does some exquisite patina work.
Yes, PJ is very good and does some of the services, particularly the colouring
I would add my endorsement of Pinnas & Needles, great service and great guys. New Stitch in Richmond also very good. I haven’t used Kokos for a while but they were excellent last time I used them.
Simon – any recommendations for repairs to leather bags?
It is PJ at the Januty Flaneur that does all the patina work, shoe care and waist trimming not Tom.
Hi Simon
Thumbs up for Tony’s heel bar. Another very good place for shoe repair is George Shoe Repairs on Tottenham St.
For suit and odd trouser alterations I have used Hidalgo Brothers on Savile Row. Very good workmanship and value.
Hello Simon,
I have a very old, but very special pair of Oxfords that have a small split in them. Could you recommend someone who could patch them?
I’ve tried as many places as I’ve had hot dinners, but I’m afraid, I’ve come up short.
Thank you
Psul.
I have heard of the guys at The Jaunty Flaneur doing patches (inside, I think). Have you asked them?
Fabric repair in NYC……………..had wonderful bespoke suits w/moth damage, one in glen check and one mini hounds tooth pattern repaired beautifully. Patterns match where repaired, can’t see where the damage existed. Highly recommend, a dying breed:
French American Re-Weaving
119 W 57th ST Rm 1406
New York, NY
212-765-4670
Ronnie Moore
Nice, thanks Guy
That’s a fantastic initiative, thanks a lot Simon. Looking forward to advice on US places.
A couple good spots in Paris:
Dry cleaning: Royal Pressing Berri, 44 Rue de Berri, 75008 – On the expensive side, but great service / great level of care, dry-cleaning done on site, and they offer to basically dry clean your suit by itself, with no other garment in the machine, for a little extra. Very good to remove stains from luxury ties too
Alterations & repairs: Maison Pen, 5 rue Pasquier, 75008 http://www.maisonpen.fr/ Former cutter at Smalto / Cifonelli / Arny’s – Can absolutely be trusted for heavy alterations
P.S. forgot to mention this……………again related to NYC, a source for a vast selection of buttons:
Tender Buttons
143 E 62nd St
New York, NY
212-758-7004
If you live in the States anywhere outside NYC, DC, Chicago, San Francisco or LA, maybe Houston, there’s effectively no trustworthy option. Even big cities like Philadelphia, where I live, are impossible to trust with bespoke or couture clothing. I send suits and jackets once a year to Rave Fabriccare in Arizona. It’s expensive because of the postage, but reliable and the lapels and collars come back thoroughly supported with inflated plastic and beautifully shaped. They have also invisibly repaired several tears in a sportcoat I love, but is half-lined cashmere and ridiculously fragile. D&B Tailors in Newtown Square is a good option for those in Baltimore or Philly — Gabe’s house style is not to my taste but he will do expert alterations on others’ suits. Finally, B. Nelson shoe repair in NYC, which does mail order, is the only reliable option for shoe repair: they’ve resoled my favourite pair of old Church’s diplomats three times and converted two of my shoes to Dainite when I realized I mainly wore them in bad weather.
I`ve used Golden Stich on golders green road in North West London quite a few times, with great results. Touch expensive, but then compared to other things on this site not really.
They also do a bit of MTM, with Holland and sherry fabrics, Zegna, ect. That I haven`t tried.
Also very quick.
Hidalgo Brothers on Savile Row (right above Cad and Dandy) are excellent for alterations. They’ve expertly altered several jackets for me from the shoulder, which is an expert job.
I feel like we’re giving up secrets here as these recommendations are worth their weight in gold 🙂
Damian at Magic Stitch
23 Earls Court Rd
I’ve had a number of items altered by him including, suits, jackets, trousers, swimwear….he did a great job on a couple of my Loro Piana sweater jackets, which are pretty tricky as they’re unlined and have almost no excess fabric to play with.
Also for the married readers, your wives will love you for this recommendation. Magic Stitch is where a lot of the Sloane St / Bond St. designer stores send their dresses when the scope of the alterations are beyond the comfort level of their in-house seamstresses.
Simon, thank you for the recommendations…..I had used an excellent laundry service for my shirts during a stay in London and I forgot who they were, despite searching on the net, looking at credit card receipts etc. I just found them on your list (it was Buckingham cleaners)
Nice! Pleased I could help Jason
Maybe not in your confort zone, Simon, but do you (or someone else) know of some useful places for clothing alteration or shoe repair in Belgium?
I don’t, but I know someone who might. I’ll ask them to chip in if they do
Thanks!
Hello Simon
Perhaps you can make a list per city, similar to your shopping guide per city. Readers can contribute locations for tailoring alterations, cleaning and repairs.
In the long term I think that would be great to do, yes
For anyone in Yorkshire, I can recommend the Ilkley Shoe Company for resolving and repairs. The quality of work is good, with reasonable prices and good service. They also offer a postal service too. Highly recommended.
Great post, my uncle will be very pleased that Celebrity Dry Cleaners got a mention! He washes a presses all of my shirts some of which are now 4.5 years old.
On the same theme, with a full time job, Permanent Style and two kids, how on earth do you have the time to wash and iron your own shirts?!
I actually went full time on the site a few months ago, but hasn’t really given me any more time! My wife does most of the washing, I generally iron shirts. Always with a good Podcast on, eg 99% Invisible
I wish you published this article when I was still living in London
I wouldn’t recommend Graham Browne. I had a dispiriting experience with them went I went to get a jacket altered. I only went because they kept being recommended on here! From the outset I felt unwelcome, like my custom was really putting them out. And despite me telling them not to, they made the jacket too tight so it felt really restricted at the back. I don’t know who I dealt with but they seemed like old fashioned London cabbies, brusque and rude and acting like they were doing you a favour taking your money. Just my experience. I don’t doubt they’re lovely to Simon!
All welcome information, thanks Tony
I am completely agree with this tips. Outstanding quality and service.
Hi Simon,
who would you recommend for clothing storage services ?
I’ve never used anyone I’m afraid. Sorry
Any recommendations for shirt/jacket alterations in Cambridge (UK), Simon?
No,sorry….
Thanks for this article Simon, very useful. I have my late father’s old Barrow/Hepburn briefcase and would like to restore it. It’s in a mess, with curled edges, cracked leather, loose stitching etc… However, it is of sentimental value and from a good maker so worth the effort. I live near Northampton so hope there may be someone who could help nearby but a drawing blanks so far. Would you have any experience with this kind of leather restoration?
Thanks,
J
Hi Jonathan – no, I’m afraid not. The person I would ask is Tim Bent at Bentleys Antiques though.
If you phone them up and ask very nicely, they might tell you who they use.
Thank you Simon. I will try that. I have also asked Barrow and Hepburn (they have an in-house restorer).
Try Martin Ashworth (www.mlworkshop.co.uk). Not quite Northampton but he knows his trade.
Thanks Robert. After a fair bit of research, I came across Martin too! Had a chat with him and he seems to fit the bill. He will re-stitch all seams, renovate leather (cracked, curled etc.) and hand make a new handle.
I wonder if there would a market for a little course on how to look after clothes, particularly sponge and press. YouTube videos aren’t interactive and one can’t ask questions or gai much impression of technique.
Nice idea, yes
Ive been using Jac Hui at 76 Berwick St, Soho, London for a couple of years and the work has been first class. Ive taken a number of garments from Brioni altered and its as good as the original work. its If its hand finished garment it will hand finished as the original. He does work for brands on Bond St, and prices are fair for the quality of work.
Allow me to contribute 2 crucial Los Angeles resources. For dry cleaning only browns cleaners in Santa Monica will do. For shoes, only Pasquale shoe repair on San Vicente. For tailoring that has to be kept secret of course.
Hi Simon,
I wonder if you have any sources of good dry cleaning vendors in HK? thanks a lot!
No, sorry. I’m sure a HK reader could recommend something though
Hi Simon, my first suit from a city tailor had a beautiful lapel roll, the second (same tailor) didn’t. Apologies if the question is obvious, can a lapel roll be achieved if it never had one? It has not been dry cleaned if that makes a difference?
Thanks for the Kokos recommendation, I look forward to picking up some refurbs this Saturday – followed by a nice pub lunch in East Finchley. 2 weeks turn around certainly helps.
It depends on the way the jacket has been made – if it was meant to have a roll, and the lapel and collar have been cut that way but perhaps just been pressed flat, it could certainly be changed. But if not, and the tension is not designed for a roll, it would probably not be possible to create one
Hi Simon, do you have any recommendation for sponge and press around Manchester (or North of England) ? You probably have some networks who live around here. Thanks !
No, sorry Julius. Do comment if you find somewhere worth recommending though
Any recommendations for pressers or cleaners in NYC? So hard to find a place that takes proper care of custom garments.
No, though Rave FabriCare are very good and can be shipped to
Hi Simon,
Do you have any recommendations for someone who can alter shirts, specifically shorten the sleeves. I’ve had sleeves shortened successfully by Drakes on shirts I’ve bought from them, but TM Lewin botched it completely. I’m hoping that having made to measure shirts will obviate the need to have this done for more formal shirts, but I’m happy to buy RTW casual shirts if I can get the sleeves altered successfully.
Any suggestions?
Graham Browne have done it for me, but they’re not really a shirts expert. I don’t really have another recommendation though I’m afraid
Thanks, Simon. I’ve emailed GB to ask if they do some alterations on an overcoat for me (G&H wool and cashmere for £200 in TK Max!) so I’ll ask what they think about doing shirts too.
Hi Simon,
I’ve got a particular bit of mending needed doing on my evening tail coat. It’s a vintage ensemble from the ’30s (tailors were Cooling Lawrence & Sons on Maddox Street) belonging to my neighbour’s father that he very kindly gave to me. It fits like a glove and now that it’s approaching the time of year I can wear it I have to address an issue.
The silk on the lapels seems to be coming free at the neck (due to abrasion other time, I would imagine), leaving black marks on the white of the shirt. Is this something you have come across before and would you recommend Invisible Mending for the job?
I haven’t I’m afraid Kit. It sounds like something an alterations tailor might be able to deal with, but if not then an invisible mender
No resources listed for sponge cleaning your suit!
The invisible mending resources are a godsend. The last invisible mending atelier in Paris closed a few years ago!
I read the posts about only dry cleaning your suit at most once a year and never your shirts with interest, but I was surprised to see no listings at all for somewhere to have your suit sponged. In the past many sry cleaners even did this, but none seem to do it today. I know that Savile Row tailors still send their clients suits up to Scotland (soft pure ph neutral granite water, no limescale) to have the suits sponge cleaned. Before overly harsh dry cleaning was invented this of course was the only way to clean a suit, though tougher stains might have required ammonia (or urine, baking soda etc.). Are there any good places left that will sponge clean your suit, which is the way that a tailored suit should be cleaned?
Also when discussing dry cleaning nobody mentioned the newish eco dry cleaning or green dry cleaning which I would presume might be less harsh though I hear that it can ruin some fabrics? Does anybody know any more about the subject?
A good dry cleaners in Moscow might have been useful a few years back, the local ones are notorious for using overly harsh chemicals and ruining suits in no time after a half dozen cleans and the air pollution is so bad that it actualy eats away at the fabric! I was so terrified for my suits that I actually sponge cleaned them at home myself! Probably not advisable, but it worked out perfectly and was the lesser of two risks!
Also there are no resources for hat re-blocking or repairing! Truly shocking. Has everyone really given up wearing hats? Does on here still wear their top hat several times a year at least? What about a fedora, trilby, astrakhan hat, tweed cap or fur hat?
Which brings me neatly on to the next missing resource, places to store your mans fur coat (either fur on the outside or fur lined, absolute survival essentials for a well dressed man in places like Russia or Canada or some northern states). Places to get a fur or astrakhan collar repaired, attached or replaced?
Finally what about gloves? Have these been relegated to verbaten wear these days? People do list leather repairers for coats and jackets and they might be able to restitch a gloves seam, but perhaps they might not do such a good job. So where can one find a good glove repair service which perhaps even includes cleaning or re-staining?
Many thanks for the wonderful resource guide as is, just a few omissions that were overlooked in the initial enthusiasim for creating this guide.
Carl
Thanks Carl.
The main reason is most of these places are lacking today.
Tailors rarely send suits to Scotland – sponge work is done in house usually, or a local and reliable dry cleaner is used.
On spongeing elsewhere, Michael Norman is my recommendation as mentioned.
On hats, you’ll have to go back to the original maker or seller – Lock does a.good service there for instance.
Oh and of course, where to have your hat cleaned? Most dry cleaners will probably shrink or slightly deform it. I amde the mistake the other year of wearing my fedora after a days racing into a busy, young cocktail bar, with the result that many in the crowd thought it perfectly acceptable to take it off my head and try it on, others just begged for permission to try it, girls being the worst offenders. Unfortunately, it soon ended up rolling on the drink sodden floor and had to be professionally dry cleaned, rather than home steamed. I used the best place in town but it had slightly shrunk and the brim was curling up at the front and way too much at the back and the crease was gone in the crown. It’s semi revived now, but sadly not what it was!
Assed to this, where can you get your ties cleaned or dry cleaned? Obviously water might stain them and most dry cleaning shops will damage them as they don’t have the specialist machinery and without this it affects the long loose stitch and interlining. There are specialist tie cleaning machines but who around the world has them in their shop or is there a better way to clean your tie? Obviously doctors have been told to stop carrying pens around wards and wearing ties as they are rarely cleaned and they carry germs around the hospital (though consultants still wear them in Irish hospitals where I live now!), so a good resource is badly needed by many who are neglecting the cleaning of a key piece of apparel.
Perhaps the odd resource on tailors who can reverse shirt collars and cuffs. I’ve never tried this before, but I do meet people at my alterations tailor here in Dublin using this service (Gallahers tailors and alterations on Wicklow St, Dublin 1., a fully trained tailor who can deconstruct any jacket and remake it, resize it etc. Pretty good in my limited opinion, he does all the work for the local high end department store who stock Canali, Gieves & Hawkes, Tom Ford, Dolce & Gabana and all the other usuals which range from the poorly constructed to the fairly ok standard).
Carl
Craft Cleaners in Ballsbridge, Dublin 4., Ireland, is the only dry cleaner I would trust with a good suit (or dress) in this city.
While not exactly clothing wear, it is part of the old expected dress code, so whilst if you have purchased an umbrella from one of the worlds last eight good makers of them , just return them to the maker to be repaired, but if you have an umbrella by an historic brand, your fathers old one or an undefined brand Smiths of London will repair them. Their store is a beautiful old umbrella store, where they of course still make and sell their own famous umbrellas.
Thanks Simon for the tip on the sponge and press resource in London.
I know that there are very good hat re-blockers in NY still. A large Orthodox Jewish population has aided their preservation through the hatless 70s-90s. There are also two places I believe in London that will repair or even slightly re-size your top hat, but I’m afraid I don’t have those names to hand (they are somewhere buried deep in my cavernous resource guide that has finally been roughly filed, having been spread around the house on scraps of paper, magazines, internet searches and through wandering in diverse cities but the files still need to be processed!).
Another resource that is missing is a place to have your detachable collars cleaned. I know that there is only one place left in England, the other having closed about ten years ago and that it is somewhere in Devon or Cornwall from memory. It’s a very specialist job. Again, I have filed away this piece of information somewhere, as they had no online presence or address a few years ago, though no doubt this has now changed and hopefully someone will be good enough to mention them here as it is the final piece of information required for Simon’s list (along with a few from my previous comments). Thanks all for being so forthcoming with your recommendations.
I’d like to leave a (very belated) further endorsement for Michael Norman, who is absolutely fantastic. Michael has cleaned a number of suits for me and the service and results were consistently very good.
The most impressive job was a clean & repair of a Norton & Sons bespoke suit, which was wearing thin in the trousers. The suit came back meticulously repaired by Michael’s tailor (I’m not sure who this is), beautifully cleaned, and with life restored to the shape which had previously been butchered by Jeeves. Michael took the time to talk me through his process, inspected the suit thoroughly, and commented on the (somewhat disappointing) original quality of the make. Michael’s prices are very reasonable — I believe the repair was done for around 20% of the price quoted to me by Norton’s.
I should add that Michael also managed totally to remove a stubborn oil stain from the front of a Gieves & Hawkes suit made from a delicate Loro Piana wool, which I had thought was lost forever.
All delivered back to my house within a few days with a good quality wooden hanger and suit bag. It’s hard to imagine better value.
Most of these recommendations are for Londoners, since PS is based there and perhaps much of its readership comes from there. I’m across the pond, and I have one recommendation to make for the US. There’s a re-weaving service in Chicago named Without a Trace. They do outstanding work. I have used them myself, although not very recently. Their prices are a bit on the high side, in the neighbourhood of $100-$150, but their work is extraordinary — indeed, no trace of the hole can be found once they are done. Here is their website:
https://www.withoutatrace.com/
I hope this helps some of your readers in the US.
Kind regards,
Dr Peter Sudevan
Very helpful, thanks Peter
Hi Simon,
I stupidly bought two pairs of Gucci suede loafers with lug soles in a size 9 when I should have got a size 8.5.
They aren’t available in England so I got them sent from the Gucci shop in New York.
I bought them before I had read your article about how shoes should fit.
I can wear them but they are looser than they should be. Can you off any advice about what I can do or am I stuck buying insoles from Timpson?
Insoles are going to be the right way forward certainly. Timpson ones are fine but if you want some closer advice then try Jaunty Flaneur in the Cad & The Dandy space on Savile Row maybe
Dear Simon,
Please can you let us know about your clothing insurance?
Reason I ask is no matter how well you look after your clothes, shoes, shirts, ties, bags etc., accidents happen.
What do you do in this instance when for example you get a hole in a pair of trousers that belong to a Ciffonelli suit costing £5,000 and they aren’t repairable?
Looking at all your posts you must have clothing in value anywhere from £50,000 to £250,000.
It’s part of the general household insurance. Which is great for bigger issues, but not so much with smaller, minor mishaps like this
Dear Simon,
Apologies if you have covered this before, but could you offer some advice of steamers and whether they are a good option suits?
Nick
Sure. Yes, they’re a good option for suits, useful to refresh something when coming out of the wardrobe or after travel.
I use a Fridja one, which is ok though not top of the line.
Details on that and other recommendations from readers in this post: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/11/christmas-gift-list-2017.html
Dear Simon,
I recently purchased a Belstaff Burfield Parka and am not so happy with the colour of the shearling trim on the hood and would like to have it replaced with a darker colour. Could you recommend someone who could do this for me?
with kind regards
Barry
Hi Barry,
Thanks for the question. I would recommend Cromford Leather on Chiltern Street in Marylebone. They work in shearling and often have spare pieces as well they can use. Give them a call or email as well if you want to discuss in advance. They’re very responsive.
Let me know how you get on
Simon
I’ve been looking for a decent cobbler for shoe resoling for both men & women’s shoes. The ones listed above popped up on a few recommended lists, however, Tony’s has very hit and miss revues, which turned me off as I’ve had some mediocre experiences in the past. Kokos, on the other hand, has excellent revues, and recent ones as well which is encouraging. I’ll be testing them out in the next few weeks and will update.
Thanks Nikita, that’s very helpful
So we finally picked up our shoes from Kokos. First of all when we dropped them off we got great service. I was having some gommino Tods resoled and they talked me through the various soles they had in stock and how they would make it work, particularly as I’d worn away some of the leather at the front and back.
George, the shoesmith came out and spent about 25 minutes talking to us and advising on what to do, whether we should have soles put on some new shoes, or if we should wear them a bit. My gf was concerned as she has some quite expensive designer shoes but George took the time to reassure her and not only give his advice but also explain why. Great service.
We picked up the shoes 3 weeks later and have been wearing them for the past two months. So far the workmanship has been great and haven’t had any issues.
Very happy with the service, attention to detail and final product. Overall I’d happily recommend Kokos and I’ll definitely be going back.
I just discovered your website. I live in Stanmore NW London and was wondering, is there someone in my area (this site seems to concentrate on central London) who can care for my suits e.g. steam, press and occasional clean. I’ve invested in a couple £400 half-canvas suits and want to care for them properly. What do I need to look for? Thank you.
I’m afraid I don’t know anyone in that area of London, Luke, and I doubt there is a specialist there.
It’s not so much that we focus on central London, but more that there are just so few anywhere in the country, that they tend to cluster in areas like Mayfair where there are more high-end suits and customers. I wish there was one in East Dulwich where I live.
Thank you. I understand some do a collection service, which would be worth it if I do a few items at once. Where can I find those?
Michael Norman is the only one I know
Dear Simon,
Whitcomb and Shaftesbury recommended
K.S. Tailoring Services for alterations and repairs. The service was very good and work was very neat. The man behind it used to be a bespoke coat maker. However, I believe he was (what I would consider) unreasonably expensive. Taking out a jacket at the waist and side seam, and trousers at waist was around 150£. Perhaps this is the standard here, but I was surely surprised. He can be found at 11 St. George str. W1S 2FD (same as W&S) but on the lower ground floor.
07583131652. I hope that helps if anyone is looking, but have in mind it is not cheap.
Regards
Thank you Alex.
That sounds like Savile Row tailoring prices – which might be what people want, but is expensive yes. It’s probably similar to what he or another Row tailor would charge for an alteration. Perhaps useful for someone that wants something altered by a foreign tailor, and done so to a very high level, but not for everyday things?
Hi Simon, who would be your first port of call for repairing jeans? I have an Albam pair with a tear at the groin, and I’m wondering where to take them to be patched up.
Good question. I’ve only ever had jeans repaired by the makers – Blackhorse Lane or Levi’s Bespoke. Perhaps worth checking with Albam that they don’t offer that service, first?
Just to follow this up, many months later – I paused for a while before eventually taking them to Soldier Blue. They took a little longer than initially promised ( 7-10 working days, ended up being more like 3 weeks) but did a really faultless job. I would highly recommend them
https://www.soldierblue.co.uk/pages/denimrepairs
Thanks for adding it here H, appreciated
Great article and very useful tips. Thank you for sharing your page.
Hello – love your website…Where should I get my shirts done? Cleaners hate the floating interlinings in the cuffs and collars and they never get it right….I don’t mind spending more, but even the more expensive services don’t work.
Is it too much to suggest ironing your own Mike? You’ll get much better quality that way, and it is of course cheaper. Dry cleaning generally is bad for shirt material as well.
Hi Simon – sorry for the delay and thanks for the response! I’m completely inept. I’d wind up burning the house down or something. I agree re dry cleaning — I just get them laundered and hand finished.
Ah I see, thanks
Hi Simon
Got a question for you about your Donegal wool coat – the heavy second gen one. Would you get it dry cleaned? Recently moved into a flat with a moth problem and have been rather worried about it. Thought a good clean might be in order but would want to damage the wool.
Warmly
Jackson
Yes, do dry clean it, that’s not a problem.
You can also steam it yourself at home and that will get rid of any moths
thanks a lot!
Simon – have you any experience with the Samsung Airdresser? I am a doctor and usually wear a pair of tailored trousers and a shirt to work (must remain bare below the elbows!). I quite like the idea of being able to disinfect trousers after each wear without the hassle and cost of dry cleaning, but am unsure about the efficacy of these devices or their long-term effect on garments…
I haven’t, sorry Lachlan
Hi Simon
To update the list, Tony is no longer at 9 Crown Passage. Not sure where he’s gone.
Edward
Thank you, yes he’s in north London now I think
Do you have any recommendations for alterations aside from Pinnas and Needles? I have used them before and like them, but the turnaround time is slow. I’m looking to slim the legs of some trousers.
There is one on South Molton St that is meant to be good – sorry can’t remember the name off the top of my head!
Thanks for the extensive article Simon. I’m wondering if there are any updates / further experiences with London dry cleaners since this article was written? Particularly for tailoring / suits.
Not really Cedric, I’ve used one of these two consistently – Michael or The Valet. The latter now has its own space in the Piccadilly Arcade
Have been working with Michael for a while now (thanks, Simon!) and he’s very good. Knows what he’s doing; you’d be in safe hands. Both (very occasional) dry cleaning and shirts.
Do you know anywhere that does lambswool etc repair please?
I think Cashmere Circle do any knit in a natural fibre?
British invisible Mending based in Thayer Street
Hello Simon,
Do you have any experience of dry cleaning at Savile Row Valet?
Thanks.
Yes, I’ve had a few things done and it’s great. The biggest difference is that George is pressing everything – usually the biggest problem with dry cleaners, as discussed previously here
I have a jacket which is too tight but it is not bespoke. I will need it altered. The actual cloth is still available from HFW…Allsport II. I’ll not be going back to the MTM salesman where I bought it.
I am considering Pinnas and Needles and I understand that they do some bespoke.
What would be your thoughts on this Simon?
You mean for the alterations? They’d be great. I have no idea about their bespoke however.
If you’re considering using the cloth to add panels to the jacket, just be cautious as the tone can change with a new ‘piece’ of the cloth
That’s great Simon.
Many thanks
Lindsay
Yes, for the alterations.
Then yes, they’re very good, just in high demand (you might have to book a slot through their website)
I actually phoned them. They advised that I wear the jacket and have a few photos taken and sent to them. Then they’ll give me a rough assessment and price quote. Then I can book a slot.
Sounds good to me.
Just used The Valet for a sponge and press, and they did a wonderful job. Very pleasant to deal with too. Highly recommended to those looking for somewhere in London
Hi Simon, I have a pair of bespoke linen trousers in cream and they have some stains from coffee and berry juice. Would you send them to the dry cleaners or try to remove the stains at home? If I have to send them to the cleaners, would it be less of a concern than jackets where they are sent to?
Many thanks,
Jack
Yes on the last point, definitely.
I’d try something careful at home, but don’t take any risks. Then if you need to, send them to the cleaners
Would anyone have a recommendation for an alterations tailor in Zurich (Switzerland) or Frankfurt (Germany) who could be trusted with bespoke pieces?
Any recommendations highly appreciated.
Many thanks, Jan
Have you heard of Chelsea Green Valet, in Chelsea Green, London?
No, sorry
Returning to your very helpful list, this time in hope of recommendations for fur repair / restoration? My wife’s coat got attacked by moths, so has the mouton collar of my Rocky Mountain Featherbed. I realise this is quite specialist, any leads in London would be appreciated.
Hi Cedric – have you seen my pieces on Yves Salomon?
Hi Simon,
Wondering if you had any experience with The Valet on Piccadilly arcade for alterations? Have a few pairs of bespoke trousers (pomella) which need taken in and wondering would they be in safe hands….
I have used them for cleaning and shoe shines (which have been excellent) but alterations is obviously a different beast.
Thanks in advance for the help.