Repairing a rug jacket – with denim-like da...
This coat has a good story behind it, and is a nice one for Dry January I think, as it shows different ways clothes can be remade, repurposed and repaired. I bought it at the workwear-oriented shop Jinji in Paris . It had been made by them under th...
Repairing a rug jacket – with denim-like da...
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Fully understood. Back to the clothing itself... I really like the idea of a project like this, taking something that sat almost as a museum piece and bringing it back to life as a wearable piece. Very roughly along thes...
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
I met Ben at our recent pop-up party, and liked what he was wearing (first outfit below). We got to talking and I discovered his interesting background - always good, as I’d like these profiles to explore different types of PS reader - and his...
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
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Look towards, oni 200zr, warehouse co, samuri jeans, dawson denim, black horse lane, United overalls. Best thing I'd say is go to son of a stag as they have tonnes and are very helpful and try some on. Different weights,...
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
Earlier this month I visited Seoul, to see some of the tailors I had been intrigued by but mostly seen from afar, and to visit some of the shops and brands. My impression was of a dynamic city – new development, new retail, every sho...
Seoul: A menswear shopping guide
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I dodn't see a mention of Bastong, or did I miss something? Seems like an interesting shop, doing collaborations with British manufacturers as well, like Gloverall duffle coats?...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full ...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
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Yes. Trees make less of a difference, but I still would if they were worn regularly. Worth a brush down after wear just like suede as well...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
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I've found it's good actually, kind of how I predicted. I wouldn't wear it when it was actually chilly, but I wear it longer through the season than with regular linen...
Buying second-hand US-made Levi’s
Getting good mid-blue jeans can be tricky, given the prevalence of raw denim among most high-end makers we cover. Several do offer washes - like Orslow and Full Count - but the range and therefore the choice is usually less. Plus of course that&rsq...
Buying second-hand US-made Levi’s
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Yes, though they often also have natural fading and wear from the original owner. The problem is if you start from raw, it takes a very long time to get to the kind of blues we're looking at without some kind of pre-wash...
Visiting the 45R headquarters, Tokyo
When we approached the headquarters of 45R, I was a little nervous. I'd been given an introduction by a friend, but had no idea what the management team knew about me or Permanent Style, or how much they cared. It was late afternoon and already get...
Visiting the 45R headquarters, Tokyo
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Bought online sadly and Levi’s have terrible customer service....
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
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I wouldn't pay any attention to them - it's all about the shade of brown, browns vary a lot. If the brown is dark enough, it's fine. Do try black as well though and see if you think it feels more balanced. In general Tam...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
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Ok, thanks for letting us know Dharm...
The beauty of denim – with Levi’s through t...
Levi’s had exposed rivets on their back pockets until 1937, when complaints about scratched saddles and seats forced them to be covered. A few years later the rivet on the crotch was removed, with the better (but possibly apocryphal) story tha...
The beauty of denim – with Levi’s through t...
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I bought my first levi jeans ? and jacket for £2::50 and £2:50 for jeans many years ago they had to have red stitching in the legs for original levies in a shop in Inverness...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
These are the first jeans I've had from Bryceland's , and I've been absolutely loving them - for the fit, the colour and the denim. But I was a little nervous about buying them, as I'd never had unsanforised denim before. Given I know this will be ...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
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Hey Palm - there is an article planned actually, I'll be writing it next week...
Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?
Almost every time I've featured jeans in recent months, someone has asked about turn-ups. So I thought it was worth a dedicated post I could point people to going forward. Interestingly, I think the reason it's coming up more is that there are more...
Why do people turn up (or cuff) their jeans?
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Hi Josh, No, we don't have any plans. We normally only do products when we can't find the thing out there already we love, and I'd suggest Bryceland's or Rubato jeans on that score...
J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York
It was really nice to be in New York last week, after a break of three years. (The last time being for our Ivy Symposium .) I got to see many old friends, both in the industry (Steven Taffel of Leffot and I realised we both have our 15-year anniver...
J Press, Stock Vintage, CHCM, Snyder: New New York
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Thanks, yes I've seen those labels before. I think there is quite a bit that's still handwoven, as in it's not too hard to find, even if it's of course a tiny proportion of the market. Crofts in Lewis and Harris are the ...
Wear loafers with jeans
In the hyper-casual world we’re living in, any opportunity to add a little smartness to everyday clothing should be grabbed with both hands. One of the most effective ways to do this, I’m finding, is wearing loafers with jeans. Jeans ar...
Wear loafers with jeans
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Yes, from Trunk as part of an anniversary edition with them...
Reader profile: Tim
Tim owns an antique luggage and travel accessories shop, and spends a lot of his time either in the store or on the road sourcing. His clothes are eminently practical, but they also speak of a love of old things, including all second-hand clothing. ...
Reader profile: Tim
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Great story! I reuse or repair a lot of my families old ranch clothes! Its a great aesthetic, and I dont have to pay for a high quality jean shirt, when I have vintage made in the USA wrangler shirts ready to go! Also, P...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t necessaril...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
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Check the leg measurements and how they compare to what you already wear, but it would probably be a different look, yes...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
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I quite like it, it's unusual but not too much. I haven't had one made though, so hard to say with much certainty...
Reader profile: Mattia
I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...
Reader profile: Mattia
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I loved reading this and I love Mattia's style. As someone who doesn't earn a lot of money most of my reading here is pipe dream stuff. But me and mattia are on the same boat - there is a way to dress well for under 3k! ...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
I recently had my vintage Levi’s repaired a couple of times by the team at Blackhorse Lane. The first time for a rip in the knee, and the second to reinforce the crotch seams. It’s wonderful to be able to do that. The jeans are just as s...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
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I think the latter myself Ryan...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...
Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs
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Hello Paul. I don’t know how easy it is to physically see C&J in Geneva so here is a close up of their rough out suede leather in brown if that helps, as sometimes official website pictures are met that helpful. I ...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
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I see, thanks for advice!...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
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I recently had a pair of MTM jeans made by BHL. It was a wonderful experience. Lilly was extremely helpful and detail-focused. I felt she really cared about getting the best fit possible, even when it meant more work for...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Go...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
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Good to see them opening a new place in Burnham on Crouch, Essex on 15th September. Friday's and Saturday's initially I believe - and by appointment . Promising unseen vintage.. I feel a day out on the coast coming on.....
The craft and eccentricity of 45R
The 45R store in London is a little jewel on Brook Street, just round the corner from Fenwick’s, next to the far more imposing Issey Miyake. I can imagine Permanent Style readers being drawn in by the indigo textures on display in the window,...
The craft and eccentricity of 45R
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This is absolutely true....
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
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I wear white jeans in the autumn/winter, as long as it’s dry and sunny. I pair them with a denim shirt, blue chore jacket and oxblood Dr Martens...
