Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know.
And today Edward still likes a padded shoulder, perhaps upturned at the end, together with a longer jacket with a little flare in the skirt.
But interestingly, a double-breasted suit from Edward is not all that dramatic. Single-breasted pieces often have a lapel that is wider and more curved, setting Sexton apart. But as a DB already has much of that, the difference is smaller.
House: Edward Sexton
Address: 26 Beauchamp Place, London
Site: www.edwardsexton.co.uk
Cutter: Edward Sexton
Price (at time of writing): £5200 (incl VAT)
Edward cut this flannel suit for me in 2014, and it’s become one of my favourite things to wear to lunches or events.
I find the structure of the shoulder and the sweep of the lapel distinctive, but the grey-flannel cloth subtle enough to make them things people only notice after a few minutes.
I’m not sure the style flatters me quite as much as a drapier cut like Anderson & Sheppard, but it has real style and I hugely enjoy wearing it. Particularly with a scarf or roll neck.
As you can see from the image above, the lapels are wide (3¼ inches) and sweeping. But as mentioned at the start, this feels less dramatic than on a single-breasted jacket.
I should also say that the front edge of the suit is not slanted upwards or left in reality; that’s something odd with the photography.
Compared to fellow Nutter-alumnus Joe Morgan, Edward also uses fewer flourishes or finishing details, such as lapped seams or Milanese buttonholes.
Instead, the finishing is just very good. The suit and coat he has made for me have some of the best English finishing I’ve ever seen: extremely fine, precise buttonholes, but in a regular structure rather than Milanese. It’s a subtler overall look than many might expect from the name Edward Sexton.
There is a little more drama elsewhere – specifically the shaping of the jacket through the waist and the small of the back, and the width of that roped sleevehead.
Edward also likes a trouser that is fairly straight – a little narrow in the thigh and then straight to the shoe. (The effect of that can be seen in the close-up of the shoes, lower down this article.)
When that leg shape is combined with a jacket that fully covers the seat, and so the legs finish with a touch of white space between them (below), the effect is again quite striking.
(The trousers are a touch big in the waist now, and are sitting a little low – there wouldn’t normally be quite as large a break.)
Looking at the measurements (listed in full below), the suit is not that wide in the shoulder (5½ inches) but is extended by fairly high and thick roping in the sleevehead.
The buttoning point isn’t that high (19¼ inches) but looks it due to the fairly long back length of the jacket (33 inches).
The vents are cut quite high (11½ inches), adding to that impression of flare in the skirt. And the sleeves taper rather from the wide starting point at the top.
The shoulders are strongly padded, but no more than other English structured tailors like Huntsman, Dege & Skinner or Kathryn Sargent. They are, however, slightly more built up at the ends.
In terms of the rest of the clothes, I’ve always liked a pink shirt with grey flannel, even if it does feel a little corporate. And the mid-brown is nice against pink too.
In retrospect I shouldn’t have picked a handkerchief that was the same pattern as the tie though. Oh well.
The shoes, from Edward Green, are the Selwyn model on the 82 last. The slightly purplish shade is called Nightshade.
You can compare this cut to those of 25 other bespoke tailors that have made pieces for Simon, in the Guide to Tailor Styles here. There is also a book version, called Bespoke Style.
Style breakdown
- Shoulder width: 5½ inches
- Shoulder padding: Strong, particularly on back
- Sleevehead: Roped, domette and canvas
- Sleeve: Generous, tapering to a 10¾ inch cuff
- Lapel: 4½ inches, slight round
- Gorge height: 3 inches
- Drape: Moderate
- Outbreast pocket height: 10 inches
- Buttoning point: Low, 19¼ inches
- Waist suppression: Moderate, low
- Quarters: Straight
- Length: 33 inches
- Back seam: Suppressed
- Vent height: High, 11 inches
- Trouser width at knee: 19½ inches
- Trouser width at cuff: 16¾ inches
An elegant piece of clothing.
Gorgeous suit. The third photo really shows how well it fits in the back and over your rear as well as the overall balance between the trousers and the jacket.
I thought it was the same one as in the last photo and even the usual photo shoot makes it seem rather stiff the last photo just shows how well it is cut and moves with you. Grey and pink is a great combination and do that myself but with a plain black tie.
One last question-what colour are the buttons? They look grey in the bottom photo but a mix of grey and brown in the second one.
Thanks Dan. They’re a dark-brown horn. They probably look more grey for being a matte, unpolished finish
Thank you, Simon.
After re-reading my original post, it should have been “even though the usual photo shoot…” Apologies.
My favourite of all your suits. The shaping of the shoulders compensates for the very sloping stature, whereas all other I have seen on you tend to highlight it. Equally, the fit across your lower back compensates your hollow back and manages to mask your protruding rear. A really clever piece of bespoke work.
“The shaping of the shoulders compensates for the very sloping stature, whereas all other I have seen on you tend to highlight it.” That was exactly my reaction too.
I don’t especially like double-breasted suits and the roped shoulders seem anachronistic (photo 2). But by the time I got to the bottom it became clear that this suit suits your form really very well. The last photo shows this perfectly – a completely natural look.
Geez, why don’t you tell the man what you really think of his physique…
Excellent suit by one of the best of the best..peace….
“I’m not sure the style flatters me quite as much as a drapier cut like Anderson & Sheppard”
Interesting, I’d have said the opposite. For me, at least, this is a far more flattering cut. One of your best suits, I think.
Thanks Richard.
I find the drape cut accentuates my chest and widens my shoulders. This cut widens them but also squares them, without making the chest visibly bigger. Both make the waist look smaller in proportion.
Both are nice, but personally I don’t think squarer shoulders are necessarily more flattering, and I prefer the A&S in the other respects. I can see why tailors like to square a shoulder, but I think width is more important.
There is also a layer of personal preference on top of that, in that the A&S cut looks much more relaxed, and the flattery is probably more subtle.
It might already have been pointed out but the “a drapier cut like Anderson and Sheppard” link seems to lead to an article that only mentions Anderson and Sheppard in relation to trousers and pocket square.
Lovely suit.
It hasn’t Ian, and thanks for picking up on that – it’s the wrong link. Have a look at my A&S suit at Pitti years ago here instead.
Hi Simon,
Amazing suit.
Please, let me ask you a couple of questions:
Thank you and best regards,
Thanks.
1. I wouldn’t wear it as a separate jacket. The combination of a structured make and flannel cloth doesn’t make it a great candidate
2. Yes I would. I would just increase the contrast in other ways, for example with a white shirt and black shoes
Excellent suit, Simon, one of my favourites of the series. Bespoke Style is en route to me and I’m very much looking forward to seeing it in print. Just a question regarding the measurements – do you document anywhere how these are taken? i.e. from where to where the lapel width, gorge etc. are measured, or are we expected to know these?
The introduction explains some of the terminology, and there is a diagram in the book, but not online. I should add that. They’re also explained on some of the articles online.
But the lapel width is horizontal, from the edge next to the shirt, to the point of the notch or peak on the lapel
It’s a nice suit Simon but I dislike the heavey roping on the sleeve head…..just too formal looking.
Yes I can see that. Interestingly, some of the new Sexton RTW removes the structure and roping from the shoulder, just keeping the dramatic lapels
Hey Simon,
My untrained eye finds the skirt quite billowy. I think that’s partly the photo but I wondered if this was something you notice and if so why that may be?
Otherwise as far as a classic suit goes, this is pretty perfect for me.
I’m not sure it’s the photo – I think it’s just that a lot of traditional tailors, including Edward, emphasise the skirt of the jacket because they feel it makes the waist look smaller, and gives style to the bottom half of the jacket. That also means the buttoning point can’t drop too low
Hi!
I really enjoy these posts and they give a lot of insight on what to look for in a suit.
I would really like to see also how the trousers look without the jacket especially on the side and back as it’s quite rare to see them in suit photos. It would help with identifying a good fit on trousers and make it easier to show someone. 🙂
Thanks Lausa. Perhaps that makes sense as a future article, comparing different cuts. More like this article on DBs
Where is the fabric from? I think I have exactly the same suit (other than I went for their House Drape Cut trouser shape – but the jacket is identical in detail). My cloth is an 11 (possibly 12) oz from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds although it was made for them by Vitale Barberis Canonico in Italy. The bunches (HFW/VBC) are both exactly the same. I think the cut looks great on you although being tall, I think you could carry off a wider, more fluid, drape cut but you pays your money…..
It’s 11oz flannel from the Smith’s Luxury Flannels bunch – details on the original post on the suit, here
A little surprised that this appears so normal coming from someone with a reputation like Edward Sexton.
The trouser I would want with a taper as that adds a little shape and makes the leg appear taller.
Also would it help to have the pockets slanted to make the jacket ‘appear’ less wider at the hips ?
On double breasted jackets generally sometimes they appear to have a great shape else they appear rather bland or boxy .
Such a tricky jacket to get ‘right’ especially as with double breasted there is some much going on
i.e. wide lapels , lots of buttons , pockets , the double breasted lapel .
Real food for thought this article and double breasted jackets really require much more writing on, Simon .
Thanks Robin – have you seen this article where I compare several of my double breasteds on some of those points?
I don’t like slanted pockets that much – I think here it would be too many angles, the straight pockets are more pleasing. Also part of the point of the cut is to emphasise those hips. It slims the waist and adds some flair (literally) to that part of the jacket
I can quite understand why this garment brings you so much pleasure. My daughter got married on the 18th and I walked her down the aisle wearing my dark blue flannel Edward Sexton double breasted suit which I commissioned this year for the big day. It is my first bespoke suit and I really enjoyed the whole process, and the care taken by Peter and Edward. It is just an extremely beautiful item of clothing which really added to the pleasure of a wonderful day.
Hi David,
Firstly, congratulations on your daughters wedding.
Edward made me a bespoke Navy suit
for my younger daughters wedding a couple of years and as you rightly say, it added something to a special day.
Indeed, I had at least 4 or 5 flattering comments on it
As I commented on this site before, I still have a couple of suits Edward made me some 40 years ago, still worn
pretty regularly and still look great, the ageing , in my opinion adds to them.
There is nothing better than wearing a great suit.
Peter and Edward couldn’t have been more helpful
Regards
Stephen Dolman
Many thanks for your kind wishes Stephen. I too had many flattering comments on the day, and am looking forward to having a jacket made this year. Will enjoy watching them age, but most likely it will be my son, rather than myself who will be wearing them in forty years time!
Hello Simon,
Thank you for this article.
You mention you like to wear this suit with a roll neck. Which colours do you recommend? Which are your preferences?
Do you think this suit is acceptable for a dinner (not a formal one)?
Thank you for your help,
Hi Gio,
I personally like tonal roll necks, so dark grey under the dark grey suit. Perhaps charcoal or black too – usually best if the roll neck is darker than the suit.
Whether it’s acceptable for a dinner really depends on the host and the location. Dinners vary hugely in terms of their formality
Thank you for your reply, Simon
Yes, if it’s acceptable for a dinner depends on place and people but my question was referring to the mid grey color. Is it too light for a dinner/evening event or it could work (depending on the place, of course)?
As other readers commented, this suit is probably one of the first suits a sartorial aficionado should commit. And yours from Edward Sexton is very nice.
Thank you for your help and have a nice day,
Gio
I think the mid-grey colour is fine Gio – darker tailoring is really only a consideration for the smartest of dinners, and even then it would usually be fine.
Pleased I could help with the various points.
Not for me, Fred Astaire did it much better.
I think the ‘draper cut like Anderson & Sheppard’ hyperlink may be erroneous…takes me to “Cover Story in Plaza Uomo”.
Thanks, yes that’s fixed now. Or should be!
Hi, Simon! To join the others, what a wonderful suit! The proper classic timeless flannel that can pass muster in any corporate/business/official setting as well as in relaxed or festive situations.
May I notice that in the studio photos the point where shoulders meet the sleeves (sleeve-head?) and then the top of the sleeves themselves appear to be a bit narrower on you than they are in the bottom photo, where the fit appears to be immaculate? Did you build muscles in your arms, or back? What is the reason that there is this ‘indent’ on the top of the sleeve / end of shoulder? Would it be rectified in the suit was let out a bit on the centre-back seam? Thanks!
I don’t think there’s much to that Stephan, it’s probably just something that could be pressed out. But when there is a large dent there, it’s usually caused by the sleevehead not being large enough, rather than anything to do with the back.
Hi Simon,
This is a beautiful suit; effortlessly elegant, but not corporate.
I am about to commission some mid-grey flannel trousers, but on seeing this article I’m now very tempted to upgrade that to a suit. My only hesitation is I don’t know when I’d wear the full suit (I’m in business suits during the week and either smart casual or evening wear the rest of the time).
With that in mind, do you think a single breasted jacket would be able to be worn as a separate, perhaps with black or indigo jeans or even chinos or khaki cavalry twill trousers?
Many thanks.
Thanks Ravi. I like the fact it doesn’t appear corporate either, I don’t know anyone that would wear this to a business meeting.
Unfortunately I don’t think flannel makes a great odd jacket, no, and even more so in a structured, angular cut like this. If you don’t know when you’d wear the full suit, I’d get a jacket in something else.
Flair and drama are what I want in a bespoke suit, and it’s hard to beat Sexton along these lines. Wonderful piece.
Beautiful suit Simon. I like that you also enjoy wearing it with a roll neck. Like you have mentioned previously a suit without a tie isn’t a great look. When I look at my suits I think that perhaps the best way to fully enjoy them in a world were ties are sadly increasingly rare would be to wear roll necks more frequently. Using different roll neck fabric weights depending on the season. Perhaps a future article topic to get your views on different ways to combine suits and roll necks !! Have a very Happy New Year Simon.
Cheers Thomas, and good idea. Also look out for tomorrow’s article covering roll necks in evening wear (plus an argument that that is a good place to start wearing a tie)
Is it me or do the shoulders look… divot-y? Is it something else?
If you’re referring to the top of the sleeve, I address that in a comment response just above
Once again an interesting and useful article, Simon. Considering it being flannel, how would you say the fabric has lasted, especially in the seat of the trousers? How much wear have you given the suit? I have commissioned flannel suits and separate trousers, but I constantly find the cloth tearing a little too quick, and I now hesitate further commissions. Maybe it’s mainly a matter of choosing a better fabric:)
It’s lasted well, but it’s certainly not had heavy wear.
Flannel is not the most robust of fabrics, certainly compared to denim or cottons. But it is much more robust if it’s in a decent weight – probably 11oz and above – and if it’s a denser weave, as for example English flannels tend to be more than Italians. If it feels very soft, be suspicious! There’s a trade off there.
Also, in general care for them well. Don’t wear them two days in a row. Don’t dry clean them unless absolutely necessary. And so on
Simon hi and i wish you all the best to you and your family for the new year. The suit is really a piece that stands out and i can imagine many situations to wear it. But what is with your hair ? You always are very good groomed and here you have some longer hair left. Have you ever considered to shave your head ? I have a very similar head shape and im shaving the head for like 2 years. If never tried its worth it for sure.
Yeah, there was something weird going on with the light there – trust me, my hair doesn’t look like that, it’s even all over.
However, I have recently gone for shorter hair than this (this shoot is a couple of years old, from when we were doing the book).
I wrote about my decisions there in this article
Ah ok, i thought you had a problem with the clippers causw it happened to me once 5 years ago and i didnt notice at all. I find the shorter hair make you look a lot younger so it was a good choice to do so 🙂
Thanks, yes I agree
I imagine that Mr. Sexton and Mr. Morgan are both getting on in age considering how long they’ve been cutting. When they eventually retire, is there a younger tailor who cuts with the same style of lapel and shoulder?
Yes, a few. Michael Browne is the most obvious, but also Dobrik & Lawton are great
Hi Eugene,
Although I haven’t any personal experience of him, an extremely well dressed friend of mine had a suit made by Francis Paley who trained with Joe Morgan
I have yet to see it, but he’s very pleased with it
Regards
Stephen Dolman
Thanks Stephen, yes absolutely, Francis too
Hi Simon- I hope you and yours have a blessed New Year! Thank you for sharing the suit. Can you comment on the button choice you made (color, tone, horn, etc)- I have always found that helpful in choosing buttons myself. Thanks in advance for anything you share.
Thank you Jay, you too.
I picked dark-brown matte horn, which is my default for most tailoring. If you want more of my opinions on buttons, there’s a lot in the Buttons chapter of the Suit Style Guide
A an absolute knock out – doesn’t need any other descriptive
Love it. My favorite of all your suits. This is a perfect example of when people say that a suit is one of the only garments that can truly change the shape of your body. I mean this in the best, most flattering way. It looks elegant, refined and finished. Not to say that your other suits don’t, but not to this effect and appeal.
As a photographer, your’s,as pictured here, needs a lesson or two in how to dress for an event.
It wasn’t an event, just a shoot in a shop William. I don’t care what the photographer wears in that situation really.
I like the trousers (despite the length here) more than the coat. Over all, though, the look is less crisp than I’d prefer for that amount of money spent. Somewhat sloppy. The roping is quite excessive.
Thanks Manolo. I think quite different points there. The roping is obviously a style point, but it doesn’t sound like the crispness is. Could you explain what you mean there exactly?
I think if you’re going to wear a double-breasted suit it should make no apologies, and have ‘statement’ lapels like this one; it looks elegant, but I’ve lost count of the number of times the DB suit was announced to be ‘making a comeback’, I think the last time I wore them was in the mid-1980s when I bought several Hugo Boss versions, a time when Boss were at their peak using high quality Italian cloths, and when they outnumbered SB suits 3-1.
I would prefer a wider trouser, which could take a turn-up, I don’t think it suits the slimmer trouser, or particularly needs it.
Simon
I have a pair of shoes in nightshade, much as I like them, i struggle to pair them with many outfits. Your pair look more muted than mine, I’m thinking of using black polish to subdue the colour and make them more versatile. Any suggestions?
I think that’s a good idea Misbah. And I’d wear them most times you’d normally wear black
VERY NICE and a piece of history, really; I was lucky enough to by a vintage Tommy Nutter on eBay…three-piece that I am sure was cut by the venerable Mr. Sexton. Simon, might I ask a question? (this is probably not the place, but I don’t know where else to pose this query!) Recently I found a BEAUTIFUL black vintage YSL DB, 6 on 3, made in France, probably blessed by The Master himself; must be at least 40-50 years old. The fabric is great, the cut magnificent, and it fits me like a glove. HOWEVER, (and it’s a BIG however!) it has NOTCHED LAPELS! I love it but it looks…wrong? I see in some films from the 60’s and 70’s, that once in a while a DB with notched lapels shows up, so I know it was a “thing”. Any thoughts? Any help? Anything at all? Happy New Year to you and your family, and anyone reading this!!!! Enjoy and stay safe!!!!!
Hey David,
It sounds like it’s already fairly unusual, so a notch lapel is not necessarily that surprising. It’s a fashion house and a fashion choice. It will certainly look odd compared to most suits, but that may well have been the point.
I don’t think there’s much you can do other than embrace the style, if you can.
Hi Simon,
For a jacket with such built up shoulders, do you find yourself having to wear a different style of shirt (perhaps one with longer points or a taller collar) in order to harmonize the overall look?
Also, I know that you already done separate break downs on your C&M, Edward Sexton, and G&H (cut by Davide Taub) suits, but it would be nice to have an article that did a side-by-side comparison of the shoulders of all three. There seems to be so much variation to the heavily built-up shoulder style of English tailoring (how padded, some appear to be more square, others appear to have a concave/pagoda shape etc), so it would be nice to have an article which runs through all of the small details. Perhaps you could even also include military tailors like Huntsman or Dege…
Regards
Hi,
No I don’t to be honest. But most of my dress shirts have fairly tall collars anyway. If you generally wore a softer or smaller collar, I can see that being an issue.
On comparing the tailors, yes I can see how that would be interesting. However, when it’s come to details like this, I’d also be a little afraid that it could create too much the idea that there is a single house style – eg with Gieves, Davide will vary that shoulder a fair bit. And so will other similar tailors like Michael Browne. Still, if we can avoid that then it could be interesting.
I don’t know if it is the photography, but judging by the symmetry of the lapels, it looks like the anchor button is not being used. Am I correct?
No it is being used Otavio. Perhaps it is the photography
Simon
Fit overall looks good. I am personally a fan of the British style shoulder, with roping. The longer vent gives an elegant look.
I do have a couple fit concerns as an expert working in the industry. For the amount of money paid and time spent talking about shoulder fit, the back and sides of jacket are negatively impacted by not accounting for your exact shoulder slope. This causes the jacket to collapse in the back creating the diagonal creases above armpits, and the rippling below armpits on the side of rib cage. If the shoulders are already extensively padded, adding a little more to clean up the look won’t hurt at this point. I would recommend addressing with them. I can also say they should’ve acknowledged it in the multiple rounds of fittings you had. They knew you’d be photographed and could’ve done a better job accounting for your shoulder slope. It’s a little unprofessional.
Hi Abraham,
These articles are not intended to demonstrate fit to this degree, and in fact as we frequently discuss, it’s really not possible to analyse fit accurately from a few static photos. No tailor I know would reach a firm conclusion, let alone state the corrections, from a single photo. I would suggest it’s worth avoiding doing so.
Also, any suit needs some excess around the armpit on the back. We can talk about the degree, but if the back is completely clean then it is not a functional fit. You simply can’t move your arms freely.
Thanks
Hey Simon,
This suit is beautiful!
I recently had delivery of a black velvet SB from Sexton & we’re doing a few tweaks to it. Being used to the closeness of C&M, I was surprised to see how relaxed Sexton’s waists are (you may remember me asking about it a while back on your offshore article with the linen DB).
Upon delivery, I was unsure whether I’d like that fuller cut, but over time, the comfort & appearance has really grown on me. There’s something very ‘Art Deco’ about it & I find myself thinking up different fabrics & designs for the next order (which I’m sure you can resonate with!).
A question for you… The backseam refers to the curvature of the seam & how close it’s cut to the back. Is waist suppression related to the sides? & if so, what terminology would you use for the area around the buttoning point (& how close it sits to the body).
Waist suppression usually refers to the shape of the side seams, but that affects the front and the back, as well as the sides. I don’t know a specific term for how close the jacket sits to your waist at the front
Got it, Thank you Simon
Can the shape of these side seams be altered by after the jacket is completed? What’s the limit to wait suppression? How much freedom does one have to change this aspect of a jacket later on?
Hi OP,
Yes, all of that can be altered – see our video here running through what can be done, can’t be done, and is just hard, in altering bespoke
Thank you, Simon.
I wonder if you might consider doing a piece on ‘posing in tailoring for photographs’ ? I don’t mean that to come across as vain – it’s just that there are circumstances in most peoples’ lives (weddings, work/corporate pictures, etc) where such photos will be taken and I for one feel like I could use some advice on avoiding stiffness! Given your by this point ample experience Simon I think you’d be well placed to provide it. Best wishes, Peter
I never thought about that Peter! I will do so now.
I think my short answer would be just stand naturally. No one’s looking at the suit, so just look like you’re pleased to be there.
But I’ll think if there’s anything more I’d add
Building photography is how I earn my crust, but
Hi Simon,
I am thinking about buying my first DB suit and are thinking about different cloth. I want some texture but think that woolen flannel could make the suit difficult to wear in more corporate/professional settings. But I dont really want a plain worsted. Is worsted flannel a good compromise. I have also been looking at the Harrisons Frontier cloth.
Personally I don’t like worsted flannel Carl – it gets rid of most of the things that are attractive about flannel. The overall effect would also not the that different to flannel in terms of how it’s seen in the office. If flannel won’t work (and I’d stay conservative, given this is your first DB) then I’d go for worsted
Thanks! I will try to find a worsted with a bit of texture/structure.
Good call
Hi Simon,
When you talk about jacket length do you include the collar in the measurement?
Thanks.
No, it’s from the bottom of the collar – where the centre back seam meets the collar
Hi simon
Do you know where I could tenth a classic English navy double breasted suit that is high quality (as I am still growing MTm or bespoke doesn’t make sense to me yet unfortunately) I have found one that I would be interested in but it is in Italian style. Would it still fit into the English style even though it is Italian?
I’m afraid we don’t really cover RTW tailoring enough for me to be able to give a view, sorry Flurin. There is advice here on buying a quality suit, and here on materials, but that’s about all I can provide.
I’m sorry but I forgot to name from the brand
Do you know where I could find a classic English navy double breasted suit that is high quality (as I am still growing MTm or bespoke doesn’t make sense to me yet unfortunately) I have found one that I would be interested in but it is in Italian style. Would it still fit into the English style even though it is Italian. The Brand is called Pini Parma
https://www.piniparma.com/products/blue-double-breasted-suit-made-in-italy
You could certainly wear that kind of suit in an English style, but it will look quite Italian with the details and the cut.
To be honest, it’s not the kind of style I would recommend though. The jacket looks pretty short, the buttoning pretty high. It might make a difference if you took a larger size, but it’s hard to say.
Thank you
I asked the company about the length and they said that it is 2-3 cm longer and would it look better?
The length would certainly be better, but I don’t know whether the rest would be a good fit on you or not.
Perhaps have a look at this video on the length a suit jacket should be, and this one on fit in general. There is some room for variation there, but the PP ones don’t really look to be in that flattering, classic mould at all.
Ok would it be a classic Italian cut ?
https://www.piniparma.com/products/double-breast-blue-stripe-suit-limited-edition-made-in-italy?_pos=11&_sid=eeeed095b&_ss=r
https://www.piniparma.com/collections/suits/products/grey-striped-suit-made-to-order-made-in-italy
No, I’m afraid there’s nothing classic about that cut. It’s much more a contemporary, international style that aims for tightness and suggesting more of the body, than anything elegant or concerned with line and drape.
Ok and you can’t give me a good alternation ?
Thank you for you time
A good alternative? I’m afraid not, no, this isn’t really a level I know well. I guess I’d suggest looking at places like Berg & Berg, Anglo-Italian, Drake’s or Cavour. But with all of them I’m not speaking from personal experience.
Thank you and I hope this last question isn’t too personal or rude but how did you get started so did you just start with Bespoke or with mtm or RTW?
No problem at all Flurin. I started with RTW, and wore brands like Ralph Lauren, Canali and others. But this was almost 15 years ago, and even then I didn’t research the differences as I would do today, so I couldn’t give anything like comprehensive advice. I could say what I liked, but it wouldn’t be at the standard of what we aim for on PS.
On MTM, I did wear and still wear good MTM, all the time. There is a list of the MTM places I’ve covered here.
Thank you very much, I would also like to wear more mtm, but since I’m still growing it doesn’t make sense, unfortunately.
But I have a quick question about Pini Parma, why aren’t they classic and timeless?
I hope the question is not too stupid
Ah, in that case yes it certainly makes less sense.
Did you look at the videos Flurin? If you look at my points about the length of a jacket, for example, and where it should finish on the hand, you can see how short those PP jackets are. There are then lots of other similar points, such as the slimness of the sleeve, the tightness of the body, the high buttoning point and so on.
Thank you, I would also like to wear more mtm, but since I am still growing it doesn’t make sense. One more question about pini parma, namely why is it not classic and timeless
For the points I made in the last comment Flurin? Those style aspects are not classic or timeless. They are very much a fashion of the past few years, and don’t aspire to the kind of elegance and subtle flattery of classic tailoring
Now I see
Thank you very much
No problem Flurin. Any other questions, just let me know. Others appreciate the back and forth as well
I’m sorry to bother you again, I hope you’re not angry with me, I’ve watched your videos on How a suit should fit but I would still like to see your Opinion ? (I think it’s a little bit tight)
https://www.oliverbrown.org.uk/cadogan-suit-plain-navy.html?id=254153298&quantity=1
No worries Flurin. No I’d say that was pretty classic – the length, the room in the body. Not bad at all. Do have a look at things like our guide to suit quality and the guide to suit style if you want more info there
I hope you don’t mind me coming back to this topic so long ago but I did a little research and found these two suits would you describe them as classic English double breasted? (I think you can call it that, I have looked at your guides but I would just like to have your opinion.
Maximilian Mogg: https://shop.maximilianmogg.de/collections/spring-summer-collection/products/anzug-grau
Cad and the dandy: https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/ready-to-wear/suiting/double-breasted-grey-plain-wool-suit/?sfw=pass1664652945
Kind regards
I’d say the Cad one was quite classic English, yes, with a look of the Anderson & Sheppard about it.
The Mogg is a more extreme style, with the bigger lapels and so on. Still English but less classic. Leaning more towards the style of an Edward Sexton
Thank you very much, I hope you don’t mind if I ask you 3 more questions, namely did I understand correctly that both suits I showed you earlier are equally classic, so not extremely classic but still classic and secondly how would you rate this suit? https://antonmeyer.de/detailansicht/anzug-theo-doppelreiher-db/
And last but not least, you can say that this is not an exact definition of a classic English suit there are
Sorry Flurin, which two suits earlier? Also, your comment seems to have cut off
sorry i forgot i meant the mogg
OK, thanks. No in that case I would say the Mogg is a slightly exaggerated example of classic English style
Thank you very much, I asked two more questions in my second last comment, could you maybe give me some feedback, please? This was the comment : Thank you very much, I hope you don’t mind if I ask you 3 more questions, namely did I understand correctly that both suits I showed you earlier are equally classic, so not extremely classic but still classic and secondly how would you rate this suit? https://antonmeyer.de/detailansicht/anzug-theo-doppelreiher-db/
And last but not least, you can say that this is not an exact definition of a classic English suit there are
Sure.
Rate the second suit on what, how classic the style is?
And I’m afraid I didn’t understand the last question. Can you rephrase please?
Sorry
I would be interested to know if the Anton Meyer suit has a classic English cut. I would also like to know if you can define a classic English suit exactly (back length, lapel wide etc ) or if you can only define it roughly.
I see. Yes it does.
A classic English cut will have a slightly longer length, clearly covering the seat, a stronger shoulder and more canvas in the chest. But otherwise most style aspects are about moderation – a lapel halfway across the chest and so on. It’s about balance
Dear Mr Crompton
I hope you don’t mind me asking, but does this Anton Mayer double breasted suit have a classic English cut?
With best regards
Always generalisations in calling it that, but yes it looks pretty classic and English
Hi Simon,
This suit is just amazing. Please, let me ask you some questions:
Would you wear this suit in the evening for dinner/night event (not for very formal occasions)?
How would you dress down this kind of suit? Any option for going tieless?
Thank you
Hi Oscar,
Personally no, I wouldn’t wear this to a non-formal event, though it does depend how non-formal!
If I was going to go tieless, I would probably go with a tonal crewneck sweater underneath and perhaps a silk scarf
Hi Simon,
I’ve just seen on a IG story you’re wearing this suit tieless with a crew neck. Interesting.
Please may I ask you what you think about wearing this DB flannel with this playful options:
1. Crew neck in different colors: navy, green, balck or even burgundy.
2. Standard denim shirt (tieless)
3. One piece collar shirt (obviously tieless too).
4. Knitted polo shirt (cashmere).
Thank you and best regards,
To be honest Oscar, I’m not settled on what I think about it as I wore it yesterday, let alone with any of those other pieces! I think it’ll need a bit of time playing around with to have anything like a firm opinion. Those are all good suggestions for tieless alternatives though
Since the sad passing of Edward Sexton, I’d like to think that his good skills and distinct style that he embued have been passed on to his team of tailors and cutters.
Who’s heading up the bespoke team now?
An update refresher would be nice sometime in the future on Edward Sexton bespoke.
Sure Lindsay. It’s Nina Penlington, and there will be a piece in a couple of weeks that talks a little about her work at Sexton now
That’s great!