Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
I met Ben at our recent pop-up party, and liked what he was wearing (first outfit below). We got to talking and I discovered his interesting background - always good, as I’d like these profiles to explore different types of PS reader - and his...
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
Match in comments:
Look towards, oni 200zr, warehouse co, samuri jeans, dawson denim, black horse lane, United overalls. Best thing I'd say is go to son of a stag as they have tonnes and are very helpful and try some on. Different weights,...
How to correct a flattened lapel
Sometimes the lapels of a jacket can get squashed in the wardrobe, making them fold at a point they’re not supposed to (the ‘break point’). It happens particularly with jackets that have more intentional roll, such as a ‘thr...
How to correct a flattened lapel
Match in comments:
Hi JC, That's lovely to hear, thank you. The answer is unfortunately no, not really. Where the lapel rolls to is largely set by the tension in the collar and the position of the canvas inside. The lighter the jacket is, ...
How to hand wash knitwear: Video
The clothing care I’ve always been worst at is washing knitwear. But I have got better in recent years, in part as I’ve become more used to the process and it’s felt more reliable, more predictable. Over time...
How to hand wash knitwear: Video
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It would be good to see some more evidence on the potential issues that can have, I think, given the people I spoke to have washed their knits for years without any issues. I suspect that specific detergents will have so...
Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough &...
One of the biggest things that affects how great clothing ages, is the extent to which it can be altered and repaired. The best things for repairs are often casual clothes, like jeans, where visible repairs can even be seen to add to their character...
Bespoke basted alterations: Chittleborough &...
Match in comments:
You mean the divot at the top of the sleeve Adam? In that case it is pretty much gone, but still slightly there. I think it's inevitable unfortunately when you're trying to make a substantial alteration like this. But I ...
Video: How to deal with stains on tailoring
This video, the latest in our series on how to care for your tailoring at home, looks at stains. Cutter Ben Clarke, from Richard James in London, suggested this as a topic a while ago, but I wasn't sure. I thought we'd want to talk to a dry cleaner ...
Video: How to deal with stains on tailoring
Match in comments:
No actually, that's interesting. I guess I thought that wasn't usually the case given when I get water on something, it doesn't normally leave a mark - only when used for something like the cleaning mentioned...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
Fixing the hem on trousers is a fairly easy - and satisfying - thing to do at home. It also enables you, should you want to, to alter the length of trousers (though it's much easier without cuffs). In this video I talk to Ben Clarke, cutter at Richa...
Video: How to hem trousers, like a Savile Row tailor
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Thank you. From Jean-Manuel Moreau, reviewed here...
How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor
Dressing well is not just about buying clothes, but about looking after them well, and responsibly. Caring for things so that they last longer, and you need less. In the past we’ve covered quite a few aspects about caring for clothes, includi...
How to sew a button – like a Savile Row tailor
Match in comments:
Many thanks Lindsay...
How to darn socks and knitwear
On Permanent Style we often recommend to buy less, but buy better. Just as important, however, is to recycle well (finding a good home for things you don’t wear) and to look after clothes well. They are three sides of the same ap...
How to darn socks and knitwear
Match in comments:
I'm afraid I don't Kate, no. Have fun with the repairs though!...
How I store my clothes
Being at home more has given me time to write about something readers frequently ask about: how I store my clothes. The short answer is, with difficulty, particularly given how much I care about looking after them. Tailoring cannot be too cramped, l...
How I store my clothes
Match in comments:
- Trousers retain a crease a tiny bit more if hung full length, but I don't think you really need to - No rubber strip, works fine - Tips: -- Have a section for coats, they'll always hang longer -- Don't overstuff, it ru...
How to deal with moths: Cleaning and smoke bombs
This is a personal article about the journey I’ve been on to counter clothes moths, and the regimen I’ve found that works. For anyone that would like a quick summary, it comprises: Fumigating at least once a year, using something like Pe...
How to deal with moths: Cleaning and smoke bombs
Match in comments:
They've eaten my [clean] carpets; the moths prefer around the edges where it's less disturbed - & where there definitely isn't any spilt food, grease ect - It's anything with keratin, the protein in natural fibre; it...
Shoes in wet weather: How to deal with rain and s...
In the past week, perhaps as it has been particularly wet here, I’ve had three comments from readers on old posts about dealing with soaking-wet shoes. Those old posts were never very comprehensive, so here is something fuller - dealing with ...
Shoes in wet weather: How to deal with rain and s...
Match in comments:
Hey Marcelo, Oh dear, sorry to hear that. Have you tried the steps described above?...
Video: How much can you alter a suit?
One of the reasons a bespoke suit can last a long time is that it is easier to adjust, and the tailors that made it are better at doing so. It's easier to adjust because more cloth is left in the seams, and in more places, than anything made in a fa...
Video: How much can you alter a suit?
Match in comments:
Hey Jack, I wouldn't worry much about the material becoming overworked, no. Being wool it should be pretty able to take that. Sorry the experience hasn't worked that well...
Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired
How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame, because a benefit of the way...
Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired
Match in comments:
I see, thanks Dario. No, it is cloth rubbing against itself that usually causes it to wear through. My comment above at the end is in regards to jeans. I'm saying that you can patch on the inside there, because you don't...
Dealing with losing and gaining weight
I've been on holiday for the past two weeks, swimming every day, and have noticeably lost weight. I'm tightening the side adjustors on my trousers where I didn't before. It reminds me how frequently readers ask about such fluctuations in weight, and...
Dealing with losing and gaining weight
Match in comments:
Probably the latter I think. Unless you know what you're new size will be, and there are any slightly oversized styles you will plan to wear when you're that size?...
Buttons online – Bernstein & Banleys
It has always surprised me how many Italian tailors say they can’t source good, unpolished horn buttons. Particularly because, since its launch last year, even customers can buy them from UK distributor Bernstein & Banleys ( TheLiningC...
Buttons online – Bernstein & Banleys
Match in comments:
I see. I also wonder what material is used for button threads? Is silk a good material for this purpose?...
Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)
*Michael now has a basic website with contact details at www.mnbespoke.com* There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring. They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no a...
Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)
Match in comments:
Yes, that can be a pain. I'm normally staying in self-catering accommodation, so I don't have that issue. Hotels are usually for shorter trips, where I can take all the shirts I need. But I wouldn't worry about giving so...
Video: How to press suit trousers
This is the last instalment in our series on looking after suits at home. The first showed how to brush and generally maintain suits, and the second how to press a jacket. You can see them at those links. It’s been an interesting process...
Video: How to press suit trousers
Match in comments:
Yes, true. I'd say around super 120s...
Video: How to press a jacket
Our latest video on suit maintenance may be the most useful of the lot: How to press your a jacket at home. In the video, Richard is at pains to point out that a lot of the pressing process cannot be replicated at home. Customers would need a hig...
Video: How to press a jacket
Match in comments:
No...
Five tips on suit alterations
A few weeks ago a reader asked about tips on having a suit altered. As often happens, this came up in the comments to a post – some of the best information is in there! I always recommend having a suit altered of course, if you have boug...
Five tips on suit alterations
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I wouldn't necessarily recommend Cad, Benjamin, but we have a post here with all our recommendations. If you look in the menu of the site you'll also find a section just on alterations, where some of these companies are ...
Little things every day: How to maintain clothing
When friends ask me about looking after their clothes, it always strikes me that their questions come too late. They’ve trodden down the heel cup of a shoe, and want to know if it can be repaired; a suit is looking old and grimy and they wan...
Little things every day: How to maintain clothing
Match in comments:
I assume you've also seen this post on stains in tailoring?...
A great suit cleaning option: Press2Dress
In the search for decent sponge-and-press services, I recently tried Press2Dress, a dry cleaner based in south London and run by Michael Norman. Michael is developing an online service that specialises in cleaning and pressing for bespoke clothing. H...
A great suit cleaning option: Press2Dress
Match in comments:
Thanks Michael (& Simon). When I next need to dry clean some of my suits Ill send you a message. Cheers....
Having a suit dry cleaned: Jeeves of Belgravia
Suits should not be dry-cleaned very often. For some I know on and around Savile Row, that means once every six months. For others, it means never. The exact amount, of course, depends also on how often and in what manner you wear your suits. When th...
Having a suit dry cleaned: Jeeves of Belgravia
Match in comments:
Yes, have a look on this post...
How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question
Hi Simon, First of all let me say I’m a massive fan of your blog. In fact I’ve even cancelled my GQ subscription because of your blog. Doesn’t mean you should start charging us though! I was wondering if you could do a p...
How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question
Match in comments:
I don't really buy hangers, I just use ones supplied by tailors, but if you wanted some very good ones, look at Nakata, supplied by Arterton. I don't really buy especially breathable suit covers either, I have enough fro...
Seasonal sponge and press: Burford Valet
I’ve never been great at looking after my suits. Shoes, yes. Brush them down at the end of every day, before the shoe trees go in; give them a wipe in the morning; regularly polish and, slightly less often, a treatment with cream. But I don&rsq...
Seasonal sponge and press: Burford Valet
Match in comments:
Hi Tom, It sounds like you're on the right lines, but not hanging is going to be tricky in terms of creases at the other end. If boxes are your only option, go with that but try to make sure the suits aren't piled up - n...
Altering the neck of a suit
This is an alteration to an old flannel suit, pinching in and raising the neck of the jacket slightly to correct a collar that currently stands a half inch away from my neck. This, of course, is one of the last alterations you should have done. It ca...
Altering the neck of a suit
This is an alteration to an old flannel suit, pinching in and raising the neck of the jacket slightly to correct a collar that currently stands a half inch away from my neck. This, of course, is one of the last alteratio...
