B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor . Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had ...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
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Hey JR, Absolutely, the cuts are not the same and there are many differences. It is the tradition they say they are most inspired by, and there are some similarities, such as the emphasis on the shoulder width and the li...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up. I have never seen so many w...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
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Appreciate the reply, thank you Simon....
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
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Depends how long it’s been since the last suit. Have you gained or lost weight, become more muscular etc. I’ve also found that different material drapes a little differently… but perhaps that could be adjusted in t...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
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Lovely to hear James. Let us know if you ever end up taking the plunge...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
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Yes...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...
There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first. This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...
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I think that's certainly how you achieve that look Zubair, but I think there's a risk it will look a little anachronistic, a little costume. With the jacket and certainly without it...
Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...
Like most Italian tailors, Sartoria Seminara is hidden away. There is no Savile Row grand entrance, just a name and a buzzer and a short walk up a flight of dark stairs. The effect is all the greater because this entrance is on Via dei Calzaiuoli ,...
Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...
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I think he is a gentleman who is more comfortable with other people standing center stage....
Five good ready-made suits under £1000
By Manish Puri The attention of Permanent Style has always been - and will continue to remain - trained upon the highest quality garments in the world. However, there are barriers to accessing the very best – especially with suits. You might l...
Five good ready-made suits under £1000
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I can't speak to Richard James suits Adam, other than to point to this post on assessing suit quality. But on the decision of what to buy, I think the navy suit with two trousers is definitely the right idea, except that...
Reader profile: Ian
Ian is retired, and got into luxury menswear late in life. But he always had an interest in clothes, from his early days in Ivy clothing to the forties and fifties influences that came with learning jive dancing. It could be easy to see him as bein...
Reader profile: Ian
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Amazing! I bet Ian must have loved that. Thanks for letting me know...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
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Yes, thank you Vi...
How much do you actually know? An interview with ...
By Manish Puri A few months ago I had the privilege of speaking with Alan Flusser about the history of New York bespoke tailoring . From the opening beats of our conversation it was clear that Alan wasn’t about to be constrained by the narrow ...
How much do you actually know? An interview with ...
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In response to Ned Brown. Surely you recall Shep Miller located on Jobs La, Southampton! He also had a shop in Palm Beach. He had a wonderful selection of very colorful mens resort wear. I was a frequent customer....
The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on ...
By Tom Mastronardi. Anyone that knows me appreciates my resolute affection for being well-tailored. Even as a kid raised in a decidedly blue-collar neighbourhood on Chicago’s South Side, I never required any coaxing to don a jacket and tie. Bu...
The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on ...
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A delightful read.....brought a smile to my face and a nod of my head in every paragraph....
Black corduroy suit from Zizolfi/Pommella: Learni...
In my continued exploration of all things the colour of mourning, I commissioned this black-corduroy suit from Pommella (trousers) and Zizolfi (jacket) last year. The logic seemed sound: if black is going to work in tailoring, I’d consistentl...
Black corduroy suit from Zizolfi/Pommella: Learni...
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The look would be a little different, but I'd go for pure linen, and pick the weight/type depending on what look I wanted. A heavier Irish linen would be sharper, while a lighter Italian one would be more casual and wrin...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
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Ok, thanks for letting us know Dharm...
Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the pa...
*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article here and a subsequent piece on Bill Fioravanti here* By Manish Puri It’s 1966 and you’re Truma...
Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the pa...
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I remember reading biographies of the 1950s Dominican playboy, Porfirio Rubirosa, and learning that he had his suits cut by Dunhill in New York. I had originally thought it odd that Alfred Dunhill were offering a bespoke...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasin...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
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Who would one go to now in NYC should one want the 57th Street Look? Will you be covering Ivy tailors as well in this series? It'll be interesting to know more about the bespoke operations of Brooks Brothers (which stopp...
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An int...
* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers...
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An int...
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The best tailor I am sorry to say was a man known in the industry of fashion by one name. He was the chief executive tailor in charge of alterations at Barneys New York. He was known to all as Sonny. He made Barneys. Wit...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
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Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Rom...
Tommy e Giulio Caraceni is one of the great tailors in Italy, but it’s fair to say they’re in a process of transition. The shop is run by Andrea Caraceni, grandson of Tommy. His father retired last year, and now when in the shop you&rsq...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Rom...
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Yes I would say so...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised. You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
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Thank you Simon. Have a great day! -Tony...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...
Bocache & Salvucci was a bit of a surprise when I visited last month. I’d come across the shoemaker at Jean-Manuel Moreau, in Paris, and had assumed that in Rome I would find a small (because relatively unknown) bespoke craftsman. Wh...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...
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Excellent, many thanks Peter. Wellies starting the week after that late summer I guess :)...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school’ elegance without looking li...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
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Aleks, I'm just pulling together my own outfit for Royal Ascot this year and wondered if you had a firm view on the colour of your top hat? You've obviously gone for black but just wondered if you think a medium grey is ...
Reader profile: Cedric
Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
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I know what you mean Leif. I would say that, at least in my context, it's more swinging towards the seventies when done well, as basically no one does. If the fit and cut are done well, and perhaps there's a little extra...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in traditional black featherweave wor...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
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Aleks is correct. Plain grey trousers aren't part of the traditional morning coat outfit. If you wore plain grey trousers with a morning coat to a wedding then people who care about classic menswear would notice this, an...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
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I can see I might go to someone with more experience, yes, though I believe Steven would have that. I would certainly ask. I wouldn't necessarily go to a more traditional tailor though, no. I would certainly trust Davide...
