The bowler hat in the fifties: My grandfatherR...
When we cleared out my grandparents’ house last year, we discovered an article my grandfather had written about bowler hats in the late 1950s. I've written about him before, publishing an interview in 2012 that talked about what it was like t...
The bowler hat in the fifties: My grandfatherR...
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What a lovely article your grandfather wrote about bowlers. The subtle humor in it is just amazing....
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
I met Ben at our recent pop-up party, and liked what he was wearing (first outfit below). We got to talking and I discovered his interesting background - always good, as I’d like these profiles to explore different types of PS reader - and his...
Reader Profile: Ben (and the community of menswear)
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Look towards, oni 200zr, warehouse co, samuri jeans, dawson denim, black horse lane, United overalls. Best thing I'd say is go to son of a stag as they have tonnes and are very helpful and try some on. Different weights,...
On baseball caps – and logos in general
Baseball caps are, in many ways, the lazy option for headwear. They’re ubiquitous, they’re cheap and they go with everything. I completely understand those that fight the good fight for brimmed hats, and feel it necessary to attack ball ...
On baseball caps – and logos in general
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Not to bring everything back to Blackbird Spyplane, but amusingly, they just expressed the exact same sentiment as you about luxury caps. You said: " To me, those caps, often from Loro Piana, feel rather lifeless. Like t...
The Cromford fur hat: Shearling for deep winter
A few weeks ago, just before Christmas when it was suddenly freezing in London, I was in Cromford talking to them about offcuts. The shearling coats we’ve done over the past three years have been pleasingly received - the olive double-breasted...
The Cromford fur hat: Shearling for deep winter
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Super. Thats helpful Simon. Many thanks....
New colours in the Arran scarf and PS watch caps
The popular PS Watch Caps and exclusive Arran scarves from Begg & Co - introduced last year - have just been restocked on the PS Shop, with two additional colours. It was a real struggle last year to get things in on time, with delays not ju...
New colours in the Arran scarf and PS watch caps
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Thank you Chris, duly noted...
Holiday snaps 2022: Illustrating versatile packing
In recent weeks you may have noticed comments have not been published quite as quickly as normal. That’s because I’ve been on holiday - in the north of Portugal, where my wife’s family is from. It’s a beautiful part of the w...
Holiday snaps 2022: Illustrating versatile packing
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Yes that could work well...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain. I might be going int...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
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Hey Jack, No, it's a rubber sole but a thinner one...
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
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Regarding Trumpers. Apart from ordering a tub of Almond Shaving Cream which is utterly superb and highly concentrated in a very generous 200g tub... probably the best value of all the prestige London barbers, I asked for...
Reader profile: Andy
This is Andy. A long-time reader and customer, Andy had led, shall we say, an interesting life. Currently a hydrographic surveyor, he has also been a pilot, a mountaineer, and dabbles as a model (fashion and life). He is passionate about clothing, ...
Reader profile: Andy
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Thanks Willie my man. Appreciate your comments mate, I'll have to give you a big hug as you are sitting only about 10 feet away from me in the offline room just now. Top hat and goggles - Its the way to go and of course,...
I have Gay Talese’s hat
Gay Talese. In a different hat By Tom Mastronardi "The story I’m about to relate is true; it really happened, just a few short years ago, before Covid upended the simple everyday pleasure of running into someone you know on the street and havi...
I have Gay Talese’s hat
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I'm pleased you continue to enjoy it Robert. And yes I agree, I enjoy dressing so much more now than I did when I was younger...
Christmas gift list 2021: Shawls, soap and Swan S...
It’s that time of the year again. So, with both apologies and thanks to readers that bemoaned the lack of this list last year, these are just a few of my favourite things... In these lists we try to go beyond menswear into other beautiful, cra...
Christmas gift list 2021: Shawls, soap and Swan S...
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Hi Simon. This is very helpful indeed. Dry clean it will be. Thanks. Yash...
The custom-block service, from Optimo
Over the past year or so, Optimo has been developing a unique bespoke hat programme, where a personal ‘block’ is made for each customer. Most Optimo hats are already made to order, so customers pick their felt, their crown style and the...
The custom-block service, from Optimo
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I've never really looked at this James, as I don't wear black tie that often, and even less often think about the head gear, given that will not be on display (rather like a silk scarf) at the event itself. I'd imagine a...
Hats with coats: A sliding scale
I’m often asked which hats work best with different types of coat. In fact, it often comes up at this time of year - I guess when unexpected showers are more of a hazard. The sliding scale of formality with hats is pretty intuitive: a fedora i...
Hats with coats: A sliding scale
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Thank you Simon....
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
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Well, my first decision would be about style, as those would be quite different if the Steed is more English and sharper. That would always be the most important thing. Then, I'd go for bespoke when I could if the execut...
The hats of author Ned Brown
In our recent article on Wellema , much of the conversation in the comments centred around the relevance and wearability of hats today. So I thought it would be interesting to look into the habits and collection of a reader, in this case author and...
The hats of author Ned Brown
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Dear Ned, How fun to reconnect after all these years. I thought of you a few years ago when I was in Banff again, remembering riding a tandem bike ride with you around town there! Camp Pennington was truly a great experi...
Wellema bespoke felt hat: Review
This is my first hat from Cody Wellema, the LA-based craftsman that we covered the background on a couple of weeks ago. A hat from Cody is an investment - something that is truly made to last for years, and to be cleaned, reblocked and looked after....
Wellema bespoke felt hat: Review
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Many thanks Simon. Yes I think that will work better....
The quality and style of Wellema hats
Everyone you speak to about Cody Wellema (above) agrees on two things. That he’s a lovely, lovely man. And that his hats are top notch. I can certainly attest to the former - and the latter I’ll cover when I review the hat I’m hav...
The quality and style of Wellema hats
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Just come across this site whilst looking at the Wellema site. Some interesting comments about brimmed hats not being appropriate wear in these modern times. I would never have worn one in my younger days mainly because ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
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Correction . Shirt in grey brushed cotton or a suitable light grey polo shirt ....
Video: What makes a quality hat?
In a comment on our recent video covering suit alterations, a reader complimented my questioning of Davide - saying I was putting the questions the viewer was thinking. I was really chuffed at that. As someone who spent most of their professional c...
Video: What makes a quality hat?
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Yes it could, though I'd probably start with a sisal one, or perhaps at least a brown band and slightly smaller shape...
PS Watch Caps back in stock
The Permanent Style Watch Cap is finally available again, in the popular navy and mid-grey. Although the grey we did originally was well received, a lot of people commented that something a shade darker - more the colour of classic flannels - would ...
PS Watch Caps back in stock
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60cm, but there's a lot of give in these - I find they can fit down to a 56, and certainly up to 61 or 62. When you try it on, if you do, please make sure to wear it as I do in the images - low in the front, high in the ...
The Optimo hat factory, Chicago
Optimo hats in Chicago has to be the prettiest factory I’ve ever been to. Over the years I have been to some impressive ones: Hermes, Loro Piana, Zegna. But they’re grand, sweeping, sometimes in sculpted countryside. Optimo is small an...
The Optimo hat factory, Chicago
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Simon, I had always heard great things about Optimo but never personally met anyone who was a customer or seen their work. Therefore, thank you for the firsthand report of your experiences. I don’t ever see myself as a...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
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Thanks Dave...
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
I'm not sure whether it came across, but I was almost surprised by how much I liked the Optimo hats I saw in New York last October. It was the first time I had seen them first hand, and the felt was noticeably different from what I had seen at other...
Optimo bespoke felt hat: Review
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Just let it dry naturally - felt like this is very robust. When you see some police wearing plastic covers over their hats, you can tell they must be pretty poor quality! Let it dry, then brush the nap of the felt back u...
Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream
I'm pleased to say the Permanent Style watch caps are finally available again - on the shop site - after some delays. There are two colours: a slightly darker navy than last time, which I feel is more sartorial and suited to tailoring; and a cream t...
Watch Caps back in stock – in navy and cream
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OK, good to hear. Cheers Dan...
Optimo hats, Chicago
Optimo is everything you might want from a craft manufacturer. There was a passionate beginning; a long gestation; success and popularity; and now a beautiful new factory that supports transmission of the craft. Plus a product that is superlative ...
Optimo hats, Chicago
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I don't think it's a problem Nellie, and perhaps Optimo just changed their mind on whether they included size tags at some point. After all if you're buying from their shop, with someone giving good advice, you don't rea...
