My case for the lightweight English jacket
By Aleks Cvetkovic. For much of my career I’ve felt like an anomaly, especially at the likes of Pitti or industry events. Principally this is because I’ve always chosen to wear structured tailoring, largely from London tailors, over the ...
My case for the lightweight English jacket
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Thanks so much for this. It's very helpful. I'll take a closer look at cordovan boots. I've been wearing the roughout because it's pretty easy to manage scuffs on. With all the snow we get here I've been pretty relucant ...
Cifonelli jacket: Finding a new home for good things
One topic I thought it would be good to cover during Dry January was giving away clothes that you found - for whatever reason - no longer worked for you. Finding good homes for good things, essentially. A good example of this is the suede jacket th...
Cifonelli jacket: Finding a new home for good things
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Thank you Matt. Absolutely, the geometry there drives the fit on the neck, but if the front to balance is off, it can certainly make a difference. You can see that when people try RTW and their posture, leaning more forw...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
This jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni has become one of my real favourites in the past couple of years, and I think it’s worth exploring why. It says something about where tailoring is today, at least for me. It was made in 2021 by Nicoletta C...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
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Thank you, Simon!...
The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...
When the shoemaker Seiji McCarthy came to New York recently to take part in our pop-up, he brought with him a recent commission from Tailor Caid, the Japanese bespoke tailor run by Yuhei Yamamoto. Yamamoto is a big enthusiast for mid-century America...
The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...
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I think you're right Steven, and if I could only have one I'd go for that grey herringbone tweed still...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
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Depends how long it’s been since the last suit. Have you gained or lost weight, become more muscular etc. I’ve also found that different material drapes a little differently… but perhaps that could be adjusted in t...
Reader profile: Sebastian
Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar...
Reader profile: Sebastian
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Most classic menswear brands will not offer discounts and often don't go on sale...
Coherence: What we liked in January, that you can...
When I walk around Pitti each season, interviewing makers and researching articles, it can be easy to feel lost in a flood of Italian cashmere and trainers that look like each other. For that reason there are a handful of brands I return to every t...
Coherence: What we liked in January, that you can...
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No, it's just tacked there to make it easier to move...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of the city walls (1854-1866) and ...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
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It might be heresy to say this, but having been lucky enough to spend time in both Spain and Italy over the past few years, I do think the average Spanish man is better dressed than the average Italian man. It's certainl...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
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I've found it's good actually, kind of how I predicted. I wouldn't wear it when it was actually chilly, but I wear it longer through the season than with regular linen...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
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Yes, thank you Vi...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
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I wouldn't pay any attention to them - it's all about the shade of brown, browns vary a lot. If the brown is dark enough, it's fine. Do try black as well though and see if you think it feels more balanced. In general Tam...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen has been covered on PS before - it was reviewed by contributor Tony Sylvester in November last year. But seeing that jacket in person made me reconsider the style, and then when Christophe of Chato Lufsen - who ma...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
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Thank you Alex...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
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Ok, thanks for letting us know Dharm...
Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review
Readers who saw the first article on Assisi , the Korean tailor that made this tweed double-breasted jacket, were impressed with how the fit was looking, and they weren’t wrong. It’s a very well cut piece of bespoke, with a three-dimens...
Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review
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Yes...
Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB
Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years. Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more s...
Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB
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I think the weight isn't for everyone, absolutely. I wear it more like a light coat most of the time. Go for something lighter, shetland or sherry tweed yes. But it goes with lots of things! Navy trousers, all shades of ...
Rifugio’s old villa
On a surprisingly warm, sunny day last January we visited the Art Deco villa that is Alfredo Rifugio's headquarters in Naples. It’s not what you expect for an Italian workshop. While there are lots of beautiful little tailors and cordwainers ...
Rifugio’s old villa
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No sorry, I didn't see any, they don't make them themselves I don't think...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020 . It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and ...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
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Re: black, to me the issue is whether it clashes with one’s complexion. In my experience, dark navies and dark charcoals have the same effect and generally match the same colors. People who can wear those colors can al...
Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber
The new version of our reversible suede bomber jacket - reversible so you can turn it inside out at the first hint of rain - is finally here. Much as I liked the previous version, the process of designing the Linen Harrington - essentially from scr...
Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber
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Hey Eric, I haven't found that to be the case, no. Perhaps it's because the jacket isn't really put under the same strain as a shoe is, with all that weight of your body and a fairly close fit....
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
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Not yet I'm afraid Ben, we haven't seen them in person...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
This is the first piece of black tailoring that’s been featured on Permanent Style, I think, outside of evening wear. Over the past three years we’ve been exploring how black’s role in the wardrobe can be expanded, beyond tuxedos a...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
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It depends a bit on the texture of the camelhair or cashmere - some cashmeres are more brushed, less smooth and luxurious - but in general yes, it can help...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
Continuing our recent discussion of jacket replacements - chores, Tebas, safaris and the like - I've shot two of my favourite overshirts in order to talk about different types, and how they can fit into a wardrobe. The buffalo-check shirt above is ...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
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Oh I see, thank you!...
Luxury chore coats compared
By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...
Luxury chore coats compared
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Railway Jackets from Flax London are worth a look. Made from linen there is a midweight for Summer and heavyweight for Winter https://flaxlondon.com/pages/jacket-collection...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
This is the Mk.1 Games Blazer from Drake’s in russet corduroy. To be honest, I’ve lost track of the numbers and which style each is, but the important thing is that this one's a fairly regular jacket with notched lapels - not the version...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
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Believe me, I'm not opposed to expressiveness -- Liberty of London, for instance, made some very risky-patterned neckties in the '70s. They were risky, but they worked. Patterns, color, yes there's not enough of it in me...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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Probably yes Jack, that would be very heavy...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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I don't, sorry James...
